thanks to elaine coleman for recommending a small wire-bound notebook...my grandfather, gan always had one in his shirt pocket. it has been great for notes, reminders and for others to write things i might not understand
red marlboros here are branded as diana cigarettes, yes, i smoked a couple
good friend ed miles is in italy on a cycling adventure. ed and i have become good friends since i moved to raleigh as we are both part of the wednesday night regulars crowd at hayes barton cafe. we knew that we would cross paths but were unsure if we would be able to get together. saturday i did long for a phone...we communicated via email and were finally able to connect...ed has his iphone...those of you who know ed, know he is always connected
had dinner at il profeta, owned and managed by claudio and his lovely wife whose name i cant recall but since ive named all italian women maria, we will give her that name. felt very much like a hbc atmospher, caring considerate staff, wonderful food and drink...we felt right at home
the meal was the best...other than nonnas...ive had thus far...bruscetta to start and then a shared antipasto platter with wonderful items i cant begin to describe...my first course was almost like lasagne...ravolis with tomatoes and mozerella baked...ed had a spaghetti with tomatoes and olives. we both had the spring chicken which was grilled or baked under a stone...unbelievable...fresh flavors and so damn good...the guy at the next table when we first arrived had it and when the server brought it out and i smelled it, i knew that was mz destiny...the wine was from tuscany, cant recall it but in a word, exquisite...no room for desserts but we did enjoy a couple limoncellos...made by claudio himself...if you are reading this carolyn pittman...i thought of zou...great cappacino as well.
the couple who came in after us and sat beside us had 3 boys, 10, 9, and almost 2...from iran and into mining-metals...alumium, copper, zinc and more...ed noted alll used for weaponrz...he asked where we were from and upon learning us, was most complimentary of obama...oldes son is learning english and helped with translation although pop did ok on his own. 2nd son is learning german...baby not yet talking but enjoyed the evening, alternating between sprite, soup, spaghetti and mothers milk...zes nursed right at the table...babz had it made
pop told us we had good faces, thought us to be king people and that i have the face of a priest....wanted to know if i was a pries which amused ed to no ednd...i think he understood about banking...but trying to translate accountant for ed was exhausting...finallz with some help from claudio, i think we got it accross.
claudio and maria reminded us a lot of our dear friends marget and frank ballard...serving good food, great service and special care
it was great to see and be with ed and have english dialogue for a couple of hours...we had likely crossed paths during our time in florence as we had seen and enjozed manz of the same sights
he had viewed the musical instruments at accademia, which i had missed, inluding the first upright piano, basicallz a grand piano on its end and i had hiked to the san mianto which he had not...so it was fun to exchange experiences through each others eyes.
ed had enjoyed some good retail therapy while i still havent bought a thing...where is rann
ed was meeting his group the following day for his cycle tour, i think primarily of tuscanz...safe rides ed
this also marks the longest time in mz 40 years that i have gone without verbal communication with momma, daddz, sarah or wendz...do miss our typical dailz chats
dont miss the blackberry....but do miss knowing the time
Monday, August 2, 2010
catching up 1
hoping to catch up this morning...so much going on...i spent a ton of time in 6 trains yesterday and overnight so i wrote a lot in my journal...will be transposing...also, now in munich, germany where the y and z on the keyboard are interchanged...so more errors are sure to come
after meeting mike and lindsaz at the chanting service, determined to drop venice and go instead to the cinque terre on the ligurian sea...stazed in small room, 55 euro...talked her down from 70...w no ac but adequate bed....up a winding trail equivalent to about 7 stories between, behind buildings...no bidet-washing machine here.
immediatelz went to the break front to plunge into the ligurian sea...cold but refreshing, then sunned a bit and the up to hike to 2 of the rother cinque terre villages, corniglia, pro. cornelia, and manarola. hike to corniglia took about 2 hours...steep up and down rock paths...hell...but great to enjoy the peace and quiet and views of the sea after days in busz cities
long...real long shower needed afterwards
while hiking picked up a small rock for friend kathy mahan...shed asked for a rock from everywhere i visited...no chance...they add weight...should anyone else desire a stone, i am sure she will share hers with you
had always thought id arrive in monaco in a sleek, fast, shinz car with a beatiful woman in a mink coat...no much else...and myself in a tuxedo...guess ive seen too manz james bonds...arrived instead in sneakers, on a regional train with george...ive named the backpack...he is definitely a monkey on my back and like the childrens books...seeking the next adventure...i was wearing my black t shirt...left tux on fairview road for museum of history gala for george washington on the 16th...didnt want it get wrinkled on this trip
note...these catch ups will go in more circles than usual and so i apologize
best view in rome was st peters dome on 8-30...went for a morning run...storms were brewing with dark, heavz clouds behind the basilica...perfect photo op...camera was of course in the room
no place to really sit and wonder-think-meditate or worship at st petes...so i sang it is well at the altar behind the high altar...as i turned around...a bird flew over the high alter...a pigeon from the square or a dove of peace?????
glad i didnt bring ipod...but have missed music...have sung alot...in rome it seemed that sporadic lines from mozarts requiem came to me...another time in one of my taxi splurges...the radio announcer was talking about the black eyed peas...the only thing i understood him sazing....therefore i sang imma be up in the club doing whatever i like...for hours...in florence...2 shops on the same street had a station with madonna music and a band nestled beneath the damn on the erno was playing all american music
traffic here chaotic but considerate...buses, cars and scooters all pause to allow you to cross
dinner in a street cafe...calimari...first fried food ive had since fried okra at hayes barton cafe 2 weeks ago
left vandozza yesterdaz, 8 -2, on 607 train to genoa...had 30 minutes to connect...so stepped out onto plazza, which happened to be the plaza of christopher columbus...got great shot of the statue of-to him...note...now abou 600 photos into the trip. grabbed a quick coffee...all coffee now is expresso for me...need the jolts...and an apple filled croissant, still warm...yum o.
boarded train to monte carlo
on the train to vandozza sat with a nice familz who spoke almost no english from romania...thez showed me on the map where thez lived...they do not know my dear friend from grad school, raluca, also from romania
at dinner in vandozza old men singing "hallelujah" in the street...il divo they were not in sounds or looks, but pretty cool none the less
while en route to vandozza, on the cinque terre, noticed huge snow covered mountains only to realize later that they were marble quarries, passed through marble yards with huge piles of gravel, etc...kind of like going to greystone in henderson...also huge blocks of stone...wondered if there was a future david somewhere amongst those
after meeting mike and lindsaz at the chanting service, determined to drop venice and go instead to the cinque terre on the ligurian sea...stazed in small room, 55 euro...talked her down from 70...w no ac but adequate bed....up a winding trail equivalent to about 7 stories between, behind buildings...no bidet-washing machine here.
immediatelz went to the break front to plunge into the ligurian sea...cold but refreshing, then sunned a bit and the up to hike to 2 of the rother cinque terre villages, corniglia, pro. cornelia, and manarola. hike to corniglia took about 2 hours...steep up and down rock paths...hell...but great to enjoy the peace and quiet and views of the sea after days in busz cities
long...real long shower needed afterwards
while hiking picked up a small rock for friend kathy mahan...shed asked for a rock from everywhere i visited...no chance...they add weight...should anyone else desire a stone, i am sure she will share hers with you
had always thought id arrive in monaco in a sleek, fast, shinz car with a beatiful woman in a mink coat...no much else...and myself in a tuxedo...guess ive seen too manz james bonds...arrived instead in sneakers, on a regional train with george...ive named the backpack...he is definitely a monkey on my back and like the childrens books...seeking the next adventure...i was wearing my black t shirt...left tux on fairview road for museum of history gala for george washington on the 16th...didnt want it get wrinkled on this trip
note...these catch ups will go in more circles than usual and so i apologize
best view in rome was st peters dome on 8-30...went for a morning run...storms were brewing with dark, heavz clouds behind the basilica...perfect photo op...camera was of course in the room
no place to really sit and wonder-think-meditate or worship at st petes...so i sang it is well at the altar behind the high altar...as i turned around...a bird flew over the high alter...a pigeon from the square or a dove of peace?????
glad i didnt bring ipod...but have missed music...have sung alot...in rome it seemed that sporadic lines from mozarts requiem came to me...another time in one of my taxi splurges...the radio announcer was talking about the black eyed peas...the only thing i understood him sazing....therefore i sang imma be up in the club doing whatever i like...for hours...in florence...2 shops on the same street had a station with madonna music and a band nestled beneath the damn on the erno was playing all american music
traffic here chaotic but considerate...buses, cars and scooters all pause to allow you to cross
dinner in a street cafe...calimari...first fried food ive had since fried okra at hayes barton cafe 2 weeks ago
left vandozza yesterdaz, 8 -2, on 607 train to genoa...had 30 minutes to connect...so stepped out onto plazza, which happened to be the plaza of christopher columbus...got great shot of the statue of-to him...note...now abou 600 photos into the trip. grabbed a quick coffee...all coffee now is expresso for me...need the jolts...and an apple filled croissant, still warm...yum o.
boarded train to monte carlo
on the train to vandozza sat with a nice familz who spoke almost no english from romania...thez showed me on the map where thez lived...they do not know my dear friend from grad school, raluca, also from romania
at dinner in vandozza old men singing "hallelujah" in the street...il divo they were not in sounds or looks, but pretty cool none the less
while en route to vandozza, on the cinque terre, noticed huge snow covered mountains only to realize later that they were marble quarries, passed through marble yards with huge piles of gravel, etc...kind of like going to greystone in henderson...also huge blocks of stone...wondered if there was a future david somewhere amongst those
Saturday, July 31, 2010
beautiful day in florence
today has been a full, productive, beautiful, exhausting day
it began with a tour of the uffizi gallery...oops forgot the churc of s. remigio including the bancaddi chapel, then the palazzo vecchio, the basilica of santa croce and its leather works shop...waited 30 minutes for shop to open...didnt buy a thing...the museum bargello, basilica of san lorenzo and the san lorenzo market, the central-food-market...il duomo-THE cathedral here.
also teh chapel of the medicnis...the most beautiful dome seen thus far, the convent of san marco....fabulous frescos...one in each cell, the galleria dell accademia....including michalangelos david....
it began with a tour of the uffizi gallery...oops forgot the churc of s. remigio including the bancaddi chapel, then the palazzo vecchio, the basilica of santa croce and its leather works shop...waited 30 minutes for shop to open...didnt buy a thing...the museum bargello, basilica of san lorenzo and the san lorenzo market, the central-food-market...il duomo-THE cathedral here.
also teh chapel of the medicnis...the most beautiful dome seen thus far, the convent of san marco....fabulous frescos...one in each cell, the galleria dell accademia....including michalangelos david....
Friday, July 30, 2010
florence
florence is beautiful, relaxed, and certainly walkable...arrived by train from rome about 4 yesterday...found hostel within 20 minutes...yes...success
im in bed 247...with corresponding locker...top bunk...very clean sheets...so glad that the bed is in the corner...its been a while since ive slept in a bunk and not sure i could handle it...22 beds in the room...girl in next bunk...upper level...is from demark...completing 3 week tour
dropped bags and headed out...toured the palace apartments of the medici family...former rulers...opulence and more...the pitti palace...also hoe to the hapsburgs for 100 yrs and then the savoy family before the unification of italy...walked over several bridges back and forth and saw many sights which i plan to visit today
dinner was in the hostel kitchen...there is a supermarket next door...bought a container of lettuces, proscutto, cheese and a bottle of wine for 8 euro...enough for tonights meal as well...will need refill of wine
girls at next table had made sangria by boiling oranges and sugar as a base
was joined by francisco from paris...he had finished dinner with step'daughters...he gave great tips for paris later on
lessons learned
.supermarket dinners are great and cheap
.give the deposit for towels...while the rei compact one works...a real towel cant be beat
.this is a could have trip...not a should have trip..for example...i could have gone to pisa but chose not to...not should have
ciao
goal...learn how to upload all these freakin pictures
im in bed 247...with corresponding locker...top bunk...very clean sheets...so glad that the bed is in the corner...its been a while since ive slept in a bunk and not sure i could handle it...22 beds in the room...girl in next bunk...upper level...is from demark...completing 3 week tour
dropped bags and headed out...toured the palace apartments of the medici family...former rulers...opulence and more...the pitti palace...also hoe to the hapsburgs for 100 yrs and then the savoy family before the unification of italy...walked over several bridges back and forth and saw many sights which i plan to visit today
dinner was in the hostel kitchen...there is a supermarket next door...bought a container of lettuces, proscutto, cheese and a bottle of wine for 8 euro...enough for tonights meal as well...will need refill of wine
girls at next table had made sangria by boiling oranges and sugar as a base
was joined by francisco from paris...he had finished dinner with step'daughters...he gave great tips for paris later on
lessons learned
.supermarket dinners are great and cheap
.give the deposit for towels...while the rei compact one works...a real towel cant be beat
.this is a could have trip...not a should have trip..for example...i could have gone to pisa but chose not to...not should have
ciao
goal...learn how to upload all these freakin pictures
catacombs
with my ongoing fascination with death, funerals, cemetaries, etc...determined that i had tour catacombs. visited catacombs of saint callixtus...resting place of 16 popes. very interesting...went about 30 meters down into the ground...best tour ive had...they divided group according to languages...about 10 of us who spoke english...guide, maria...are all women here named maria...teacher from slovkia who guides on her holiday...was great...could tell she was a person of great faith and wove that in...death, resurrection, salvation....etc...
quote on the front of the brochure
if you look for it, you should know that here lie togetehr at rest a host of Gods friends. the sepulchers worther of veneration preserve the saint bodies, but he palace of heaven has carried off the chosen souls for itself.
pretty strong...
also, she gave us each a Bible vs upon departure...mine, from Psalm 86, 11...teach me your way o Lord, that i may walk in your truth...prophetic.
back, showered, and ready for journey to florence...decided not to go see the tower at pisa...with my luck, it might fall before i get there and since thats the only thing i want to see there, iàll just google it later. bye for now
quote on the front of the brochure
if you look for it, you should know that here lie togetehr at rest a host of Gods friends. the sepulchers worther of veneration preserve the saint bodies, but he palace of heaven has carried off the chosen souls for itself.
pretty strong...
also, she gave us each a Bible vs upon departure...mine, from Psalm 86, 11...teach me your way o Lord, that i may walk in your truth...prophetic.
back, showered, and ready for journey to florence...decided not to go see the tower at pisa...with my luck, it might fall before i get there and since thats the only thing i want to see there, iàll just google it later. bye for now
Thursday, July 29, 2010
rome continued
the vatican museum was very impressive...so glad that i sprung the extra 4 euro for teh guide who took us to the frontof the line...still 30 minute process...but much better than standing for hours in the line around the vatican wall in the sun no less
had pizza for lunch...lesson learned...sold by the weight...in kilograms...not by the slice
siesta time...trying to do this to recharge batteries eachday
then onto the castel st. angelo which was used as a castle, prison and place of refuge for the pope in case of an invasion during the middle ages...thenthe borghese gallery, colosseum and first metro ride. tried to getto the catacoms a priscilla...but they're closed a random month of the year...nothing on the website about closure...but they closed on the 27th...guess the nuns went to the beach without updating the website
Thursday, 7/29
started day at st peters...got there...recall it is only block away...at 630 for 7 am opening....was amongst first in the basilica...really felt like i had it to myself....the first in line for the trip to the top of the dome...with kyle...guy from california...here with 3 kids, wife and parents...he'd spent time growing up in kinston...dad was w/ dupont....he beat me to the top as he'd participated in a 50 story skyscraper race in philly...worth the effort but was drenched w sweat at end...then...firstin line for tomb tour....saw lots of dead popes graves including john pauls where 2 guards keep you moving
kept momentum upfortheday...toured forum and palintine hill, trevini fountain, parthenon, spance spteps, victor emmanuel monument...and went in lots of churches along the way
met great family from clemson...they gave me tips on the forum and p hill...i shared strategy for doing st peters without the waits i encountered
love the fountains throughout rome for drinking water...have saved tons of cash by not buying water all the time...lunch yesterday was a fruit cup at the camp fiorni market...saved cup for water in fountains as i had left my water bottle in the room
decided not to do the national museum...have seen enough statues and paintings for this portion of the journey
lessons learned>
.don't wear rainbows to the forum
.shampoo makes a great laundry detergent
.when the shower and toilet are in the same room, put the lid down before taking a shower to ensure a dry seat when you need it
.the vatican has its own post office, great for sending postcards
.climbing to one high point per city is sufficient...no need to do for example...st peters, victor emmanual and another i can't even remember
.learn public transporation on the front end...saves time and money
.don't unpack even if you're there for 3 days...still must repack
i've now worn everything in the backpack...maintaining good hygene...shaving daily...on vacation...shaving daily and not buying anything...where is rann
had pizza for lunch...lesson learned...sold by the weight...in kilograms...not by the slice
siesta time...trying to do this to recharge batteries eachday
then onto the castel st. angelo which was used as a castle, prison and place of refuge for the pope in case of an invasion during the middle ages...thenthe borghese gallery, colosseum and first metro ride. tried to getto the catacoms a priscilla...but they're closed a random month of the year...nothing on the website about closure...but they closed on the 27th...guess the nuns went to the beach without updating the website
Thursday, 7/29
started day at st peters...got there...recall it is only block away...at 630 for 7 am opening....was amongst first in the basilica...really felt like i had it to myself....the first in line for the trip to the top of the dome...with kyle...guy from california...here with 3 kids, wife and parents...he'd spent time growing up in kinston...dad was w/ dupont....he beat me to the top as he'd participated in a 50 story skyscraper race in philly...worth the effort but was drenched w sweat at end...then...firstin line for tomb tour....saw lots of dead popes graves including john pauls where 2 guards keep you moving
kept momentum upfortheday...toured forum and palintine hill, trevini fountain, parthenon, spance spteps, victor emmanuel monument...and went in lots of churches along the way
met great family from clemson...they gave me tips on the forum and p hill...i shared strategy for doing st peters without the waits i encountered
love the fountains throughout rome for drinking water...have saved tons of cash by not buying water all the time...lunch yesterday was a fruit cup at the camp fiorni market...saved cup for water in fountains as i had left my water bottle in the room
decided not to do the national museum...have seen enough statues and paintings for this portion of the journey
lessons learned>
.don't wear rainbows to the forum
.shampoo makes a great laundry detergent
.when the shower and toilet are in the same room, put the lid down before taking a shower to ensure a dry seat when you need it
.the vatican has its own post office, great for sending postcards
.climbing to one high point per city is sufficient...no need to do for example...st peters, victor emmanual and another i can't even remember
.learn public transporation on the front end...saves time and money
.don't unpack even if you're there for 3 days...still must repack
i've now worn everything in the backpack...maintaining good hygene...shaving daily...on vacation...shaving daily and not buying anything...where is rann
Rome
30 july 2010
day 7...can't believe a week has gone by...and that after 7 days not a single piece of silver, painting, souvenir for myself or others has been purchased...who is this guy i'm traveling with
where is rann
remember...folks...italian keyboard, punctuation simply isn't worth the effort
picking up from tuesday...attended opera highlights at an Episcopal church...`chiesa di `san `paolo `entrole `mura....no a/c but very enjoyable
back to hotel for cocktail in courtyard...water was 6.5 euro...jamesons, 5 euro.
Wednesday, 7/28
breakfast included and guess what...water...still or with gas...sparkling...included...that's better than grey goose at a cocktail party with open bar...they lost money on me
free at last free at last...left backpack and money belt in room...thankful for in room safe
forgot to tell you that ross-s cousin monica will ultimately be buried in same niche as her dad....they'll put his bones in a box in the back corner and put her in.
today...vatican museum tour...unbelievable....now about to be disconnected.. from internet...more in a few
day 7...can't believe a week has gone by...and that after 7 days not a single piece of silver, painting, souvenir for myself or others has been purchased...who is this guy i'm traveling with
where is rann
remember...folks...italian keyboard, punctuation simply isn't worth the effort
picking up from tuesday...attended opera highlights at an Episcopal church...`chiesa di `san `paolo `entrole `mura....no a/c but very enjoyable
back to hotel for cocktail in courtyard...water was 6.5 euro...jamesons, 5 euro.
Wednesday, 7/28
breakfast included and guess what...water...still or with gas...sparkling...included...that's better than grey goose at a cocktail party with open bar...they lost money on me
free at last free at last...left backpack and money belt in room...thankful for in room safe
forgot to tell you that ross-s cousin monica will ultimately be buried in same niche as her dad....they'll put his bones in a box in the back corner and put her in.
today...vatican museum tour...unbelievable....now about to be disconnected.. from internet...more in a few
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