normandy

the most incredible day of the journey

christine gentry told me to be prepared for an emotional day...she was right

jacques perreau, our guide for the day, met us at the hotel at 9...recommended by randy and sally worth...thanks worths!

he was 4 at the time of the war...family lived in trenches...slept on straw...although his momma told him not to go outside when plans were flying over, he did, and was hit by shrapnel...barely missing his carotid artery...has been a guide for 26 years...70 years old

may have to edit this one later...not sure i have everything in notes....

this was main purpose of the trip our vietnam vets, welton-air force and macey-navy seabees, wanted to make this journey

started with a visit to the german cemetary...from 1944-1947, americans and germans buried in same cemetaries...then separated and many families wanted their boys brought home...and many were returned

the germans are buried 2 per grave...stones out of lava stone...almost black....you dont see many flowers here...visits from families are low key as many are ashamed of involvement...impressive yet simple visitors center featuring many letters...tear jerkers

onto village where paratrooper was trapped on steeple of church and museum there

700 tons of bombs were dropped in advance of invasion...toured this area adjacent to utah beach

uncle herman landed at utah beach...walked out into ocean and back....difficult to imagine what he saw that day...today, children playing, dogs barking, people sunning...no blood in the water as he described....only heard him talk about it once...on a return trip from washington, thad, jan and I think paul and i stopped...thad asked him about it and he shared some...i missed most of it unfortunately as i was desperately trying to get the subject changed, aunt e did not want him to talk about it...dont know if he had bad dreams or what...but she was livid...truly the only time i ever remember her being mad...she was....need to get together with charlotte, payne and derek to make notes on what we all know about his time there....daddy said they slept with the horses and cows at night to stay warm

learned that papa nunnery worked on liberty ships in wilmington...building them... and that aunt judith was born in wilmington...didnt know that...injured men could receive shots of morphine...up to 3...so as not to overdose them...needles were pinned to their shirt collars so the nurses/docs would know how many they had received

uncle herman served in pattons army...was an MP

visited pont du hoc...i wondered if the sea gulls were there on d day

while i cannot speak for the others, for me, the time on utah beach alone, walking into and from the surf, where uncle herman was, had a deeper impact than the time we spent at omaha beach did

the american cemetary experience was beyond description...but here goes

uncle larry's uncle joseph...mokie's brother, was killed at normandy...cousin joseph is named for him....aunt louise had an orchid arrangement made in bayeux to lay at his grave, as she promised her father in law she would

upon arrival, our guide had a representative from the cemetary to meet us...she took us, in a large golf cart, directly to joseph's grave...marked with a simple, stark-white, marble cross. there, she and uncle welton brushed sand, from omaha beach into the engraving so that you could better see his name, rank and date of death...excess was then sponged off...very simply but movingly done...she then left us, after placing flags, american and french

louise then laid the flowers...i'm getting emotional just typing this

louise asked welton, earlier in the day, retired national guard chaplain, to say a prayer

the six of us encircled joseph's marker, kneeling, held hands and welton offered an incredibly moving and appropriate prayer...perhaps other words as well...and then we closed together, reciting the Lord's Prayer.

our guide jacques, arranged for our vets to fold the flag as the cemetary was closing for the day...this was a tremendous honor for both and an emotional time for all...as a chaplain, welton has received the flag for presention to the family---which I know he does so well--many times...but had never folded...macey had not either. they did an incredible job with no stripes showing. afterwards, the flag was presented to andy anderson, superintendent of the cemetary and we had family photos.

there are 2 flags there, the second was folded by world war ii veteran, whitney mullen, 90 yrs old, of burlington, former professor at elon college and his son, richard mullen of pensacola, florida, also a veteran. their camera was dead so we took lots of photos of their ceremony to send upon return home...really special to be a part of both for all 4 vets

afterwards, we walked with andy to a grave as he wanted to share a love story with us. we went to the grave of billie harris...he pointed out that in front of billie's cross the grass wasn't as green as the others...as he receives more flowers than any other soldier...or boy...as the french call them...as the boys came to save them

there was in fact a single rose there that day

billie obviously died on d day or shortly after. once the cemetary was created, attempts were made to find his wife, peggy, by people in the village where he died...i cant recall the circumstances of his death...will have to check with the others...but the villagers never forgot him...and around 2000...they found peggy. she had moved from their town several times. since then, she comes to visit his grave several times each year.

a few months ago, andy was sharing this story with a group of marines and it just so happened that peggy walked up...andy stopped, and asked peggy if she would finish the story...and she did....afterwards, a young marine said something like, mrs harris, i notice that you never remarried, why not...she answered...when we took our vows, it was until death do us part....billie kept his vow and i have kept mine

andy also took us, along with the mullens, to a grave of a soldier known only to God where flowers had been left...with this note:
your sacrifice is remembered for barbara m. oski, b. 1 oct 1928, warsaw, poland
enslaved POW, germany, age 16, M.D. Harvard, age 24
thank you
--her son




it was a special day and i wished a lot of people could have been there to share it with us:

robert monk, who i never got to have a veterans day with in washington...thought there was plenty of time but there wasnt

my cousins, charlotte, derek and payne reamy to recall the service of uncle herman

art and alice keeney for the sacrifice his dad made

ruxton and nancy bobbit, as ruxton is a huge history buff

shields and carolyn pittman who participate each year in the wreath laying ceremony at the national cemetary in raleigh

larry, catherine, warren and joseph stancil to have been a part of the ceremony for uncle joseph

staley and christine gentry, if only our time this summer could have been at the same time on this date

ed miles for the sacrifices his family made here

frank and marget ballard who do more kind, quiet things for veterans of world war ii than i know or they would ever admit too

for darren, troy and robert hales to have been with their dad

but most of all my sisters so that we could all have shared in this day with our dad in appreciation for his service and to remember that of uncle herman who was indeed a third grandfather to us

someones in the kitchen with dinah

such a great experience at the cordon bleu...11 of us...retired couple from dallas and their grown daughters...young couple from mexico-she's french, he's entering cordon bleu in mexico city for pastry chef program, young atty from australia...and 3 ladies from johnson city, tn...one, lisa, reminded me so much of friend annette anderson in raleigh...immediately bonded with her and her pals, teri (we sat beside each other and used the S word a lot) and DJ--twin of carolyn coleman beale....this was twin day as the chef had the same stance and mannerisms of former colleague roger earnhardt

lisa is starting a food blog and has written a cookbook. she inspired me to get cracking on the one i said i was going to do...adding it to the list...they were great fun...told them how much i missed country music...these ladies from tennessee--what's the deal?---are not country music gals...DJ said that she had recently been to nashville though and said she saw a t shirt: shit happens and we sing about it...must get jeff edwards' dad to send me one!---sometime when in asheville, they are going to meet me at razzas for dinner

2 hours at the market...fascinating...wish marget ballard could have been with me

lots of food when we returned including shrimp salad in avacados...reminded me of margaret britts shrimp mold...a must for christmas night....good at easter, ground hawg day and bastille day too...but always tastes like christmas night....margaret, lets have duck with orange sauce this year!

cooking demo...mushroom flan, herb encrusted lamb, incredible fig and strawberry tart

not sure if i've blogged about this or not, but after class, rushed to notre dame to meet louise...saint chappelle was built to house the crown of thorns which a french king had bought from another impoverished monarch....when saint chapelle suffered a fire, the relic was moved to the treasury at notre dame...it is shown 13 times a year...on good friday...and the first friday of each month at 3.

i missed much of the service, but did get to see and kneel before it...encased in glass...looks more like a grapevine wreath than what i imagined the crown to look like...but who knows...impressive service

watch your step

while at the british cemetary, aunt louise was cold, and therefore returned to the van...macey was done and he accompanied her...sidewalk about 1 in difference at passenger side, she fell...swore macey to secrecy...thought she was ok...by days end...not so okay...so viv, auntie louise and rann...driver extraordinnarie of stick shifts now, to the hospital....first 2 hospitals we went to were psyc wards...thought i could get a 2 for 1 and admit momma and louise..haha...but finally found emergency room...said we could see the doc in 5 hours....they loved the fact that louise had insurance...she was prepared to pay with credit card or cash if need be...they assured her that she would get a bill when she got home...they really didnt seem worried, no credit card for assurance or anything.

luckily...nothing broken...just bruised...so 5 hours later, return to hotel

doc prescribed 4 medications...total cost...less than 23 euro...unbelievable...what's the deal at home?

road trip

left out a twin, mollie mcinnis, the future of the mcinnises from high point, now a senior at wofford, on the train to versailles yesterday

i want a dog

this trip has created in me a thirst for knowledge...art, culture, history

after geriatrics' arrival saturday, straight to giverny for monet's home and gardens, great to see both after and before seeing so many of his works here in paris...wished that marie martin could have been with us to enjoy the gardens

then onto bayeux...welton and daddy slept most of way...momma too excited to sleep, aunt judith appeared on brink of collapse...louise in charge of 'garmin' gps in english...thanks again beth fleishman for a great recommendation...provided great directions...i do HATE roundabouts...hope to avoid hillsborough street at all costs upon return to raleigh

bayeux tapestry...incredible...tells story of william the conquerer...best audio guide in europe...walks you through, panel, by panel, 50+ of them

to cathedral, one of my favs....entrance at street level...huge doors, flung wide open as though welcoming arms...isnt that the way churches are suppossed to be? clear stained glass, allowing light to come in so that you can see and appreciate the sanctuary and its architecture

dinner, la coline d'enzo, recommended by hotel...best presentation of the 50 days here

hotel d'argous...built in 1700s, beautiful...drive int o courtyard with drive lined with boxwoods in large green planters on either side...as you approach the entrance...lots of grape/salad tomatoes...loaded...had niece emily domenech been with us....there would be none left...she eats tomatoes like a rabbit...loves em...thought of emily often on this trip...realized that i have never had a day with just emily...had many with hannah when she was little...and with hamp and wil...must get to albemarle and do something fun with emily...she reminds me so much of sarah when she was her age...in build...eyes-though hers are brown, sarah's are green...both sisters have sweet, great kids...its fun to be with them...especially when they are all together and their moms are back home...i have much better time with them than they do with me, i am sure

the stinky guy just left the internet cafe...perhaps for a shower....now how will i stay awake?

flowers everywhere at the hotel...beautiful gardens...and pumpkins at the front door...first of the fall...is it fall already?

always think of anne harris when i see a pumpkin...she took all of us...about 60 think, to pilot to the pumpkin farm when we were in god squad...i had 8 dollars...thought i must spend it all...and did, on the biggest pumpkin ever grown...they should have taken it to raleigh for the state fair...had no money for supper at mcdonalds in louisburg...betty oneal bought me a burger...anne told me that day that if she heard mrs harris out of my mouth one more time she was going to slap me silly, to call her anne...have been ever since...still haven't shut up

also think about the hartys when i see pumpkins. halloween was big at 221. stephie was the leader of the punkin carving...one year, i got real nervous...430...about 40 pumpkins lining the sidewalk out front...both sides, as directed by stephie...scooped out, candles in them...but not carved...she screeched to a halt about 435....trick or treaters come in warrrenton about 5 pm...so i was real nervous...anna britt molly and i sat on the steps and watched...she was like a hurricane...got them all carved, brilliantly and we had them lit and ready by 5 or shortly thereafter...jeff and i always lamented about the expense of halloween...first year, i had over 300 kids...did learn to buy candy canes...kids loved em, first of the season, parents thought i was nuts, but they were 18 for a buck at the dollar store...cost effective trick or treating!

loved halloween in warrenton, took day off, made sweet potato pies, veg soup, lunch and dinner for friend and neighbors

the wemyss kids, anna macon, morgan leigh, levi and jacob were in charge at my house...think that is because todd told me after first year that anna macon would like to come to my place...not many trick or treaters across from WGC or in creek...knew what that was like, having grown up in afton...big deal for me to have wemyss kids at my place...all like family...always feel grounded after time at todd and claudias...first year, jacob and levi dressed as bums sprawled across my front steps...scared the bejesus out of many folks...following year...i had a manequin...as in a corpse, on a table draped in sheets, they got underneath and grabbed the ankles of people who dared to check out the 'body'

when i lived at haities, loved halloween, no trick or treaters back there...cocktail party for me...first drink at sandra and travis's, then to mary catherine and jimmy's onto anne and jacks...around the corner to the boyds---velvet and lawrence...continuing around to jennifer and davids and ending up at anna britt and molly's....crawl back through the bushes....did i take off the day after halloween back then???probably needed to

back to europe....leaving normandy, went to mt st michel....biggest crowds there of anywhere...got there at low tide....tide changes there by 40 ft...lots of climbing

picnic at roadside with great view afterwards

onto chartres...recommendation of david rupp...david and his brother had a similar adventure to mine 20+ years ago...57 days...said cathedral was best part...so i had to go...definitely a highlight...cathedral built to house relic...veil of mary...we climbed...except louise...more on that in next blog...to the top of the tower...great views...can see for 60+kilometers on clear day....spiral all the way...near top, 2 jerks had used the bathroom...how common...should have waited to return to bottom, cant imagine relieving myself in a church...but had it been a dire emergency, i would have done it via the gargoyles to see if they worked, haha

lambrith--know this spelling is incorrect...in nave...thought of mary catherine harris, only person i know with her own....lots of chairs in nave, so couldnt walk it...obvious that when you finish, you're facing the Cross

spent almost 3 hours here...incredible cathedral...being restored now...part of it looks like new, like ted echols' cast stone...must go back when complete

entry to cathedral great...lots of beggers in europe at entrance to cathedral...here...older man had flowers in hand...singing a hallellujah song i didnt' recognize, when he found out we were from the states, belted out he's got the whole world in his hands, then with our crazy singing uncle, when the saints go marching in...ladies all go flowers, he got 3 euro, everyone happy

funeral at st sulpice

attended, honestly-by accident, the last few minutes of a funeral at st sulpice last thurs...appeared to be for young man as little kids followed widow out of cathedral...undertakers very upset with some folks at back of church who didnt have the good raising to stand...held up recessional

interesting to watch...casket in center aisle with huge candles at each corner...flowers underneath...feet first...therefore facing altar...at end...pallbearers...four...hefted it upon shoulders...turning it around...faceforward to head out....cornellia and ed wiler...had i brushed up on my french and been better prepared, i would have asked the family if they had any deviled eggs and tomato aspic...perhaps i could have gone with them to the house...some fried chicken would be good too

no margaret britt, i did not take a chicken casserole

i do attend a lot of funerals...they are very important...and you never know if you might make a difference...my first funeral was that of edgerton rideout...some may recall edgerton...he was a big as the side of the house....first cousin to ma on the pinnell side...i couldnt have been more than 5...sat with ma...on right side of church...very odd i remember...ma always sat on the left...casket was open, large ladies who lived on the rideout farm went up to pay their respects, dressed to kill in black with hose that made loud noises, scrunch-scratch-scrunch, when they walked and big hats with feathers....after the service (this was before we added onto the front of providence...those steps were always mean, they said, for the pallbearers to get down with a casket, especially one as heavy as that one)...there must've been a lot of momentum heading up the aisle because the cart and casket kept going and bumped down a step or 2...i turned around to see...ma told me to face the front...i am sure that dorman probably had a stroke

grandmas was next....2nd grade...7 years old...remember the day she died...ma told us when daddy came in at supper...she was crying...momma was of course in selma...i went out to cry with the dog...dogs are great comforters you know...i remember wendy...who may have been 2 coming out to check on me...she's still checking on me

burying a child has got to be the worst thing ever...granny, grandmas momma, was still living...i can still see and hear her raw emotion...seems like she and aunt frances were there when momma and daddy took me to parishes to see grandma

back to why funerals are important...when we stepped out of the chapel to go to the family car, katy jones was standing there...or she came to the car...cant specifically remember...i will never forget that...we played with brad and alice alot and momma and katy were great buds...for a little boy...having someone he loved and respected in a strange place with mostly strange people for a event in life that he hadnt experienced was a big deal. had the opportunity to share that with katy recently...it seemed as though she barely remembered going...and didnt realize the impact it had on me.

when gan died, mamie helen came and took over. the odoms are always there for important paynter events...thinking back...it was a big deal that she took over at bessie paynters...ma didnt let anybody in the kitchen...except us...ever...but mamie helen was in charge

when ma died and there was 26 inches of snow on the ground, about 100 people came to afton...i think i could name 80 of them...we knew that those folks really wanted to be there....and it meant so much

there are four funerals i would have attended had i not been in europe...
...graham boyd...must get to ferns and lawrence and velvets upon return...always so kind...and when i moved into the house on fairview street, the first housewarming gift i received was from graham and fern...potpurri...when i opened it, i thought, what??? i had sold hundreds of bags of smell of citrus/lemon at interiors...but never had bought any...but a perfect gift...the house was spotless...you could eat off the floors when i moved in...anyone who knows harriet banzet, would know that to be true...but it hadnt been lived in since mrs daniel had passed away....a shut up house, plus a house full of furniture which had been in barns, garages, closets, etc....the perfect gift.

...i think i first met selby benton when i used to hang out at odom motor service with mamie helen and popeye afterschool...the furniture store was next door and if memory serves correctly, he would come in every afternoon for a coke or something...then, in God Squad, we went to summer camp at lake gaston estates and selby was of course there...then, in the 8th grade, he was involved in my nomination to a rotary leadership weekend...in recent years as his eyesight was failing...he would recognize my voice uptown as he sat with popeye and mamie helen selling avon (at last i thought he did-mamie helen may have said, here comes rann-regardless, it made me feel good)

...joan culberson, a true lady and friend in asheboro, wife of banker jim culberson....she was having a bad day when i drove through town in july and jim and i agreed it would be better for me to come another time...but i didnt make it back

...dr holt. when we moved to warrenton, we lived in dr holts little house...he had big dogs...boxers...i remember him coming to see gan when we thought he had kidney cancer...gan's family farmed dr holts daddy's land...a visit to dr holt was also on my list for this fall...3 quickies on dr. holt...he removed a huge moth from my ear one night after a football game...it flew right it...dr holt pulled it out with tweezers...wings still flapping...i thought it was going to go through to the other ear...hurt like hell...not dr holt pulling it out, but the wings flapping

after the christmas party at my house, last year in warrenton, he sent me a note thanking me for inviting him...said he especially enjoyed the silver bullets in the bathtub (which served as the beer cooler), said it reminded him of prohibition

about 5 years ago, wendy had some eye challenges...i didnt think things were progressing fast enough...suggested she call dr holt...she said, he's too old, he's not even practicing...i said, but everybody at duke eye center knows tom holt...so she consented to me giving him a call...i woke him up...he had fallen asleep reading the paper...he said that since he had retired his license, he really didnt know anyone...2 days later...i received...typed...of course...a note from dr holt...it said that he had been thinking about wendy and recalled a few names which he provided...he went further to emphasize that he really was asleep when i called and though it probably sounded like/appeared as though he was drunk or hung over, that was indeed not the case, he had dozed off in the sun while reading the news and observer.

patriotism

although i truly believe our freedom in america is fragile and will continue to be so...but that's the subject of book...we are so very fortunate to have the freedoms we hold dear...i've loved every second of the time i have had in i dont know how many countries, but i wouldnt trade my citizenship for that of any other

while daddy is a veteran, believe my patriotism was entrenched during 75-76, kindergarten with harriet banzet...our kindergarten graduation had a bicentennial theme...dont think i've heard yankee doodle dandy more than 3 times since then...dont know why, it's a great tune...but all those great songs, you're a grand old flag, etc...she taught us...we had great teachers at WA...not only banzet, but libba traylor---who painted her lipstick on---didnt know at 7 that that was hot, but it was---ann fleming---elaine coleman---betsy brown---mary catherine harris...most are still teaching me things today....those teachers and our parents instilled so much good in us...though i have not been blessed with children...it is amazing to me to see the kids of kathy coleman, now kate hazen; laura scott bay; karen harris moseley; jimmy vaughan; and katherine harris young...they all have the same manners we grew up with...

speaking of kindergarten, a real treat one february day when mamie helen odom picked me up from school...mamie helen and popeye are like family to us...first neighbors sarah and i had and the best ever...great until we got to afton and nobody would tell me where my momma was...gan must've been in the field...daddy was delivering equipment to long manufacturing in tarboro, dick womble...engineer at daddy's shop, was having lunch with us...i recall having a meltdown...one hampton short would be proud of

later that day, wrecked golf cart, macey very upset...perhaps he had a meltdown then....

sometime around christmas that year, recall that sarah and i were told we would have a baby brother or sister...turns out this was the day wendy arrived...feb 26...ma's birthday was the 25th, she had said the night before at supper to momma that she was going to work herself into the hospital...did not, of course, know what that meant...

wendy's arrival great....rest of day not so good, daddy pissed cause i wrecked the golfcart...i was only 5-give me a break...also upset sarah...cant recall why, she threw daddy's 100 ft tape measure at me...hit me in the upper lip...all photos of us with wendy as a newborn feature my the scab

so blessed to have 2 great sisters...and...things do happen for a reason...moving home after pfeiffer gave me opportunity to get to know wendy...being 6 years apart...that was really great

versailles

yesterday took us to versailles...last trip there it rained like you wouldnt believe...wind a blowing...remember that lisa wilson and i literally held onto each other for support, umbrella inside out...

great visit there...judith, welton and daddy rented a golf cart for gardens...louise, viv and i walked to marie antionettes domain...had to wait for noon for it to open...momma and i rented a row boat and rowed the grand canal...suzan monk and tim horne would have been proud of me

after first 30 seconds momma relaxed and loosened her grip on the sides of the boat, thought at first she might crack the hull...she had her life jacket on...understandable...she has always been deathly afraid of the water...aunt judith is too...momma took swimming lessons at the Y and "graduated" about 2 years ago....girls and i very proud...now next time she takes us to the lake we can all swim

visit to notre dame in the afternoon,

macey and viv had date night, rest of us went to l'entre cote...great restaurant...no decisions as they serve...ONLY...salad...steak with incredible sauce...fries...no ketchup...ever...we returned, with parisian lovers macey and viv tonight...welton and i had crepes on return trip

last night beautiful family at next table...mother looked like catherine deneuve (sp?)...little boy, 6, taking english...had beautiful magazine with cats...prompted me to get one for emily...emily...act surprised on christmas, ok?

cant wait to blast out the speakers in the automobile upon return...now listening to "where you are" fav rascal flatts tune on u tube---have seen them in concert 3 times...they dont play it...have only heard it on the radio once

sometimes you just have to go off on your own...51 days, 51 minutes or 51 seconds whatever it takes

ya'll know that daddy and i cannot go anywhere for more than 24 hours and not search for junk...did major flea market today....i bought nothing...still no silver...he bought lee a surprise...and some old keys...momma found 14 dessert plates...all different...new look for the hutch in the kitchen...and a copper kettle...maybe she is going to make apple butter???? damn thing weighs at least 25 lbs...i carried it at least 4 kilometers today...i think it will have my name on it with masking tape for after she crosses over

great to spend a day with the parents today...appreciate them more each year as i get older...typing this now as perhaps they wont read and it wont go to their heads since they are here in paris rather than at home in afton....they really are great...and i probably drive them as crazy as they drive me...on occassion...both ways

we really were fortunate to have parents who supported us in everything we did...i would bet my retirement account that they didnt miss a dozen things from the 3 of us...i only know of one for me...both vehicles were 'broke down' when the pfeiffer choir sung at carnegie hall and they couldnt get to nyc...thought they were going to miss the messiah, senior year, but they made it in the nick of time...chapel was packed...they stood with backs to door with david and corrine smith...so that was great, got to look right at em during the concert...hope music program at pfeiffer has days of full chapels again

speaking of pfeiffer...thought of elsie and ken lowder when in dijon...she collects owls...little brass owls embedded in the sidewalk leads visitors on the city tour...they've led a lot of young people during their time at our little school

also, cant help but notice the uniformity of the canopy (level of leaves on trees) in the gardens and streets here...didnt even have a clue about this until serving on campus beautification with joan eargle...so glad got to spend a weekend with joan and zane, joanie, cole, russell, zane, andrew and maggie before departure...while at pfeiffer, when we had student dinners, folks would fight over getting to sit in the dining room with zane...mickie rose...then nolan...and i learned early on, better to sit in the breakfast room with joan...we ALWAYS got seconds and sometimes thirds....folks in dining room...got to go back to the dorms.

visited food market today also...tapanade, bread with walnuts, blue cheese, salami...made for great picnic...then, got to sail a toy sailboat on the pond...no change at the boat rental...very kind lady...isabelle and her adopted russian daughter...whose name i cant recall, paid my rental as i am a 'guest' here...when i asked how to do this...she said, just put the boat in the water, when the wind hits it, run like hell to the other side before it crashes...had a bamboo batton to prevent this occurence

returned to orsay with viv and to the orangerie museum as well....then 2 hour nap

several folks here think my name is phillipe...that was my name in french class...have thought to much about carole wilkerson, my favorite high school teacher (french, homeroom and yearbook)...wish i could visit her and tell her all about my travels here...ironically, her daughter jamie friended me on facebook today...perhaps carole had a hand in that from above today...french 2 was the best...we helped her grade papers alot and worked on the year book, as dan blaylock, melissa draffin and evelyn hall and i were melbourne playing buds (french card game) in that class. melissa made crepes for her french project, thought of her each time i had a nutella crepe here

theres a place in france...

...where the naked ladies dance...did not go there with mom, dad, the aunts and uncle

trying desperately to gt the last week onto the blog before departure in the am...wondering how to stay awake...guy just sat at next terminal who hasnt had a bath since easter...the lord does work in mysterious ways...cant even breathe...much less go to sleep

first day in paris, while strolling from the champs elysesse to the eiffel tower

car stopped, asking for directions...sucker that i was, i tried to help...poor guy, clothing rep he said, had been in paris from milan...had the night before been out drinkin, gamblin, and associatin with loose women...spent all his dough...no money for petrol to return to his bride in milan...wanted 100 euro for 2 leather coats...each...got them for 75 euro, both, hope they dont burn a hole in my luggage

purple rain on the loud speakers here at internet cafe...first real kiss was to purple rain at sherry whites birthday party on mortgage hill...no i am not namin names

so glad uncle welton and aunt judith could come...growing up, they were always away...colorado, west virginia...so we didnt get to spend much time with them or get to know them...both so fine...welton is a baptist minister...breaks forth in song whenever things get heavy to lighten them up...yesterday it was johnny cash...today, bringing in the sheaves...often breaks into song just to sing...doesnt have to be heavy

got to spend a long vets day weekend with them in dc several years ago...where the idea for this trip...the normandy/paris piece...was born...emily and hannah, along with sarah, alexander and i got to really spend quality time with them then...so glad for other opportunities for that to continue

equal time for aunts not here...in order by age...eleanor is the only one, i think, who makes homemade chicken pastry like grandma did...one of the very few things i remember about grandma nunnery...it is on my bucket list to spend time with her to learn this craft...best family meal ever was at her house...probably 30 years or go or more when aunt ernie, the baby of the family...but in many ways the matriarch as she keeps all the traditions alive...taught me how to eat the best part of the turkey...the skin...ernie and i traditionally skin the turkey...we have been sharing with wendy for some time...but we tell everyone else it is bad

i hope that eleanor started a new tradition last christmas when she made a coconut cake that was soaked in coconut milk and eagle brand...i had to lay down on the floor afterwards...yum good...she just completed a college degree...no small feat in your fifties...all very proud of her accomplishment

christmas is most often at aunt ernie and uncle dales...all the little kids love uncle dale...the bigger kids, darren, sarah, wendy and me....head straight to the basement...they have a ms pacman machine...i think we missed the blessing one year...best part is that the machine has been modified...no quarters needed, can play all night

the christmas aunt ernie and uncle dale got engaged, she spent christmas eve at our house...got to have santa with her...a very special yule


aunt judith and momma have outlived grandma...who died at 62...all five are now grandmothers...she really didnt have an opportunity to be a grandmother...save for troy, robert and darren...and the paynters a little bit...i think she would be most proud of the women, mothers and grandmas she raised

lots of twins spotted
rob cunningham...unc grad bud...who ironically had twin girls since i've been gone with wife candy...congrats to rob, candy and big brother anderson...a cool kid...many of you will remember anderson...he was the little fellow i held for most of my graduation pig pickin last year
friend and respected banker hope connell...although aunt louise thought her twin more closely resembled hope's mom, ella ann holding
former colleague nathan batts
cousin howard moss-paynter side
pinnell side cousin-patricia morris
genie earnhardt-hostess extraordinnaire in raleigh
alan mustian...complete with too cool for school sunglasses...driving a delivery van...passed me on the corner and i waved before i realized it wasnt alan
and today, nancy harris echols...only person i know who can handle her home burning with the grace she did...whole neighborhood in shock in the harty's yard and she was as cool as a cucumber

couple from san diego staying at hotel bonaparte...he talks just like karl hehl....great to visit with ron the other morning

earlier in the week, coffee with friend and neighbor beth fleishman...beth gave me so much good advice for this journey...the hotel bonaparte, where to eat...chez allard...frog legs...and more...so great to see her...if you do not buy your antiques from beth at the knick knack patty wack...time to start christmas shopping

linda fleming---momma saw your twin today...wish you could have seen the flower delivery truck filled with...polk berries...need to tell laurie that i will harvest a truck load of'em...perhaps we can start a new trend...would be interesting to know how much they charge for an arrangement of polk berries...best part...kids can paint their faces with the juice for cowboys and indians as sarah, jeff and beth howard and i used to do

wonderful new friend margaret pierce and her husband george from washington state...have shared lots of advice for travel in france...she just completed degree in psycotherapy...perhaps she will take me on as a test case

know hamp, wil, emily and hannah will want to know if big daddy is wearing his hearing aids...no...but did in normandy...big daddy has learned how to charge the battery in his camera and to zoom for close up shots....fun to watch him...he took thousands of photos in vietnam...and when we were little...but really havent seen him take a photo in 25 years or more...he has had fun with it

viv has had fun too...has had her photo taken in front of everything we've seen...they are too funny...aunt louise said...macey can keep up with u rann, step for step...i think he's scared i might leave him somewhere

louise, macey and viv had horrific cab experience...really thought they were going to be robbed...but turned out ok...macey viv and i had bad cabbie from train station to hotel after normandy/chartres trip...macey said he wasnt getting back in a cab...good thing, we all think they are cursed...so we dont want to ride with them...haha

today is day 50 of 51
0 photos uploaded, 2100+taken
1 time wished for navy blazer...but that passed
0 calls home
0 cokes
1 hamburger
countless memories made

important to save for a rainy day...cause sometimes you have to make your own rainy day...great to have that cushion

family and friends truly are everything



uncle welton had horrific leg cramp after dinner the other night...i returned to restaurant, our waiter jerry at first thought i needed white vinegar...evidently the magic cure for this...for cleaning...they had balsamic vinegar...but no white...so he had someone go down the street for the vinegar...great service...it did cure it...good to know, i get these occassionally...typically in the middle of the night

out of order

with all the geriatrics here---hard to find time to blog so i am ay behind---cordon bleu; normandy ; chartres and more--but first; while still fresh in my mind-yesterday

outta here by 830 to see the local market; then bus 87 to napoleons tomb

lost uncle welton-turns out he was at napoleons throne rome for an extended much needed visit

visited tomb; chapel; armour; and chronological exhibits of the first and second world wars very interesting

then lunch from a pastry shop--a formula-what we would call a value meal--sandwich; dessert and drink enjoyed on park bench

fed pigeons big chunks of crusty bread-macey impressed that pigeons took bread to water to soften it before eating

then; to--thanks to aunt judith--lafayettes grave---little known spot; ony 3 people there plus us

in cemetery attached to nunnery--yesterday 3 nunnery girls visited

maintained by DAR ladies and the mount vernon ladies too

beautiful church at the convent;maid was polishing the wood floors; slick as glass; no falls today

onto the sacre cour
street performers there louise and i had seen last week across town

100 meters out of church; storm clouds forming; judith suggested returning to church; literaly seeking sanctuary--great call
sat in silence for about an hour
during this time viv reviewed photos; deleted one; became highly distraught; realizing she had deleted many photos including all from normandy

20 min later; realized she didnt delete photos; her battery died that day---didnt take any phtotos; she was relieved; louise and i laughed so much oi thought we would get kicked out of yet another church

did i tell you that louise touched a statue at the louvre on her birthday almost got thrown out--ernie and eleano---is she a bad influence

i rode the carousel--only person on it--save for the local children who jumped on and rode quarter turns with me on the side the operator could not see--hamp and emily woud have liked

onto the madeine and then to printemps for shopping and hot dogs on the street

done at 8 all those over 40 rode the metro back--no one wanted to walk--about 5 kilometers

halfway back; rain begins to gently fall; i removed the hampton backpack; securing it beneath my parka--didnt want steel box_heavy as lead_i bought at antique store for 30 euro_estimqted by uncle welton and macey to be several hundred years old_ painted red inside_i believe it to be the message box of napoleon_didnt want it to get wet___about 10 blocks from hotel; bottom drops_frog strangler

didnt want to ruin loafers;removed; put in pockets; barefootin it back to hotel bonaparte; parisians sought shelter under awnings; so i greeted them warmly-bon soir_sure they thought i was nuts; also belting_singing in the rain

soaked upon arrival

geriatrics had not arrived

changed; dried off; found fresh towels to greet them with; they sought shelter under an awning

macey changed and we went arund the corner so that i could enjoy a glass a wine--had croque madames--basically a griled ham and cheese with an egg on top--thanks again heather anderson for a great recommendation

my first memory

today is not the anniversary of my first memory---but--it is close---probably on sept 11 or 12

i was 19 months old and was in afton with ma and gan

cant recall what we were doing--but i remember that we were outside; just the three of us; under the chaineyball tree---momma and daddy drove up; in the back; where gan usually parked the pickup truck in their car--green--ugly--ugly--ford

not sure who opened mommas door; probably gan

on the front seat; sarah

my world changed and for the better; although at ti,es growing up i am sure i didnt feel that way

we had pictures made--at marguerite miles shop in warrenton--when it was just the 2 of us--thats pw--pre-wendy--dont see that picture often; dont think i have one; but it is the greatest; sweetest picture of us--she probably doesnt think so; but i feel; every day; for her; the love that is depicted in that shot

sarah is n many ways the strongest of the three of us-i know wendy would qgree--shes definitely the nicest; wendy is a close close; very close; second

while wendy and i have built names and reputations for ourselves; sarah has done it away from home

when sarah joined me at pfeiffer; she was ranns sister

now when i go to albemarle; i amknown as sarahs brother; a great title

happy birthday sarah-number 38

new arrivals

couldnt sleep; up at 330; bfast at 6; then train with aunt louise to airport

hadnt waited this long to see momma and daddy since emerging from the womb in 1970

they recognized me at international arrivals--wondered if they would--what with my longer; blond hair---at least that which hasnt fallen out yet---they did

so glad to have them and aunt judith and uncle welton here

rental van is a stick---hadnt driven one in over 20 yrs---first 30 minutes kindq nerve wracking---macey didnt help:::amazing that he can hear gears scraping but not anything i need to know when is hearing aids are out--had challenges with seats and emergency brake

aunt louise riding shotgun in charge of gar,in; the french gps---recommended by beth fleishman

auntie louise arrives

while a hurricane is approaching north carolina, wednesday morning brought aunt louise to paris...she was a whirlwind arrival as her flight from rdu to philly was delayed more than an hour...she had 15 min to make transfer upon arrival....running through the concourse yelling to the gals at gate 14, call gate 20 and tell 'em i'm on the way...she made it...only barely....as the gate was closing...last to board flight

while waiting for her flight, had opportunity to check in with hertz, learn about their location, where cars are parked, etc...in prep for the geriatrics' arrival on sat

so so so glad to see auntie louise

she only had 3 hours sleep on the plane but was ready to hit the street...dropped bags at hotel bonaparte, home for the nunnery clan while in paris...i had been over at 530, waking up the night manager to stow my bags in the baggagerie...then headed off to my favorite pastry shop

there, they have the most incredible bread pudding with apricots on top...wish sarah and wendy could have a slice...tastes more like ma's than anything i've had since she crossed over in 2000...she used to give us "little glasses" of the bread pudding custard/milk ...even saving some for us in the frig until we got home from school...she still did that for me when i was at pfeiffer...but the pastry shop was closed...so...to the pantheon where we had a wonderful picnic on the steps of the church...very relaxing until the security guard kicked us off the square...no picnics allowed...emily and hampton, do you think aunt louise is a bad influence on me? hadnt been kicked out of church until she arrives

on to notre dame, walked till 2...back to the hotel...naps in the afternoon...then, river seine tour...got chilly, i neglected to bring jacket...dinner near hotel...ribeye...awesome...first steak since mid-july...tiny tables...nice business dudes at next table told us to put some of our things on their table since ours was packed. dont think uncle larry had fed aunt louise since july 4th, she ordered what turned out to be a huge meal...full plates of coq au vin, green salad and mashed potatoes

yesterday was her 61st birthday...best coffee in europe at hotel bonaparte with croissants...then to marmotten museum...large collection of monet....got there at 10, opens at 11, so we had some yummy pastries nearby...then on to printemps for shopping....covered entire store...3 buildings, save for boxers and brassieres...after all we aint from west virginia, lol

as i type this, have headphones on listening to a little jerry butler...i'm just thinking about coolin out...johnnie britt are you reading this?

printemps is the harrods/maceys of paris...shopped last time there with linda bunch

big new york promotion going on...hot dogs on the street just outside the store...great lunch...had french fried onions on them...made me think of robert monk...robert and suzan used to do monk burgers on sunday night...burgers on the grill...as they got 'ready' robert would add a mound of durkees french fried onions, then 2 slices of cheese, close the lid, cheese melts, encapsulating the onions...awesome...sure miss robert monk

to the louvre....there for almost 4 hours...thought i had done the 'left wing'...2 hours of galleries i hadn't seen...then the sexy stuff, venus, slaves, mona, and winged victory

back to printemps for a coke-aunt louise and a cold beer...me!! on the roof...great views of the city...and back to ladies wear for the thursday afternoon jazz concert...to the hotel, change...
chez allard for dinner...famous for frog legs...didnt have them....but reservations for next tues at 1030 pm...must have them then

friend beth fleishman recommended...louise had salmon, i had rabbitt...hippity hop....terrific meal...to celebrate her special day

today, louise is shopping more, wandering the city, i am heading to the cordon bleu for a cooking class...cant wait

momma has 4 sisters...she is 2 of 5, louise is #3...always knew we were a lot a like...both have alot of nunnery in us...can go from zero to get the hell ouot of my face in less than the last 10th of a second on the clock in the ncaa basketball tourney...we also travel great together...spend the same amounts of time with art, shopping, etc...then moving on

more later, gotta go cook lunch

an american in paris...

...not me...a keyboard...yes...worth it to pay more for cyber access to have familiar keyboard...am re-learning where the "a" and the "m" are located

same disclaimer applies...while a number of my former teachers are reading this, hopefully no one is grading...user errors on these blogs will be typos!!!

love paris love paris...weather is beautiful...not like what friend in nc are likely to receive with hurricane earl...

go-gous weather...go gous as haitie bowers would say...why i ever moved from that wonderful garage apartment with incredibly low rent and wonderful benefits i will never know...2 stories on haitie...she was in her 90s when i moved in...if i remember correctly, 95. previous tenant had been messing around...haitie didnt tell me, but i knew from other sources...she kept dropping these odd lines...finally i looked at her and said miss haitie, you've known me all my life, i dont mess around with folks i aint suppossed to and i dont do drugs but i do drink a little liquor every now and again...she said, rann, as long as you share, we will never have a problem. whenever i had guests including haitie, there was always a little bourbon and water in her hand

while i lived there, we had a hurricane, cant recall which one...but no electricity and the yard was covered in limbs, leaves and debris...although i knew johnny talley would be there within a couple of days, i began clearing the driveway...pretty large if you recall...so that i could get the aurora out and she could maneuver her cadillac

haitie came out to check on me...then...she went in the "laundry room" and made a number of trips out to the concrete bench in front of the picture window there...i watched her...she had a gallon can...like tomatoes come in, 2 aluminum pie pans...tin foil pans stephie harty...a hammer, nail, matches...and a candle...along with a plate with several blueberry/bran muffins (her specialty...she made them by the tons...each muffin had exactly 4 blueberries in it placed just so in the center) which had been split and buttered...i said haitie, what in the hell are you doing..she said, since you're cleaning the driveway, i am making you breakfast...she proceeded to punch some holes in the can around the top with the hammer and nail....some in the bottom of one of the tin foil pans....lit the candle, let some wax drip into the can, set candle in wax, tin foil pan with holes next, filled with muffins, another pan on top...15 minutes later...hot muffins for breakfast...she was something else

when i came to paris for the first time, i was 13....lots of people from africa were on the plaza beneath the eiffel tower selling those flapping birds...you toss them in the air, they fly back to you...provoking the heck out of emmy lou coleman and me...wanna buy a bird, wanna buy a bird, wanna buy a bird

linda (then bunch) harris told me that the next time i was "attacked" by the birdmen, i should say, F you monsieur...so, of course i did...say...F you monsieur...he responded back, F you too, little shit

didnt see any bird hawkers...mainly models of the tower...and much more diversified group of sales people from around the world...but did see in a window, one of those birds....took picture for emmy lou

the rodin museum was worthwhile...the kiss is my favorite of his works...i must say, that our collection in raleigh....comes pretty darn close...and actually, may be presented more thoughtfully...if you havent been to the new and improved museum of art...you must go...

returned to the louvre...had missed michaelangelos dying slave...glad i did...think that his slaves presented at the accademia in florence top this one...and...as i recall... were unfinished...he believed that God had the sculpture within the marble...his job was to release it...the slaves...mid-release in florence were stunning

also toured napoleons apartments...and the "left side" of the museum...great afternoon...all the famous/sexy works are on the right side...venus de milo, the mona lisa, winged victory, dying slave...so there were no crowds on the left...great day

twin spotted, lysle misenheimer. lysle and wife gale adopted me while at pfeiffer...still provide advice, gale was teaching me, via phone, how to can tomatoes this summer...washed a lot of clothes at their place while at pfeiffer...once on the first saturday in december...sleet coming down like crazy...daughter susan was putting up the christmas tree...i was home sick, homesick. susan made me a fried bologna sandwich....dont see susan often, but i always thank her for that sandwich....it was mighty fine

another time there, mickie nolan, now rose, and i were there and i was sick with a sore throat...we did our laundry, gale had fed us and i was coughing like crazy...lysle said, rann, i got something for that coughin you're a doin...and he poured me about 2 fingers of peach...although it may have been apple...brandy...said now drink this. of course, i did, i always do what people i respect ask,hahaha...lysle said, now what do you think...i said, i think i need another dose.

cough gone, i was cured

matterhorn-moulin rouge-and more

being at the matterhorn may be the highlight of the trip

while frustrqting upon arrival because of cloud cover; i had a great opportunity to simply lounge in the room; with a tv; with 5 channels in english

watched an elvis documentary; much was in german but the music and interviews with the king-of rock and roll-not karl hehl-were of course in his voice

disappointed that it didnt show jane harris roberterson at the concert at raleighs memorial auditorium

my room was 4219 - rooms numbered based upon the altitude in meters of the peaks there; mine hohberghorn

most interesting guy at next table; reminded me of john britt; grandfather of for,er neighbors anna britt and ,olly harty

retired industrialist from chicago; now living in spain; wrote a book some years back; must buy and read upon return

twin-albert einstein on the train

being at gornegrat was like being in the middme of a lemon meringue pie
gornegrqt being amongst the smallest peaks surrounded by 29 others including the largest of all; the matterhorn; 4286 meters

while clouds covered its peak until bedtime; a full moon ensured an indescribable view overnight

i got dressed and walked around the hotel at 2 in the morning; so quiet and peaceful and the majesty of the scenery

back to bed for another nap; up at 515 for sunrise; yet another greqt experience had to wait for the sun to begin to come up before hiking up to see; not a very wide trail; 18 inches in some places; one wrong step and dan would have to order a box for me

junell and elaine wouldnt let me go to the moulin rouge at 13 but they arent here

same reaction i would have had i am sure---too many feathers and beads

mona lisa has a new display case from previous visit--i still dont get it with mona--overrated

favorite painting was paolo caliari dit veronese-les noces des cans---the wedding at canna
second-l adoration; jusepe de ribera painted in 1650-first depiction of the nativity in daylight-made sense to me surely it took the sheperds a little while to get there

speaking of sheperds--saw a heard of sheep on mountain en route to matterhorn--looked for peter and heidi but didnt see them

most of saturday was at the louvre--covered a lot of space but not nearly the whole museum

also the orangerie musuem featuring monets waterlilies on 4 curved---room like an egg-walls-amawing and catherine mosemy would have loved

had enjoyed picnics for a number of meals

splurged---guacamole and tomatoes beautifully presented with crayfish--not from mr williams horsebranch---in a highball glass --now have great idea for using those danged out of date iced tea spoons---then lamb and potatoes augratin and a lucious chocolate thang

sunday---located hotel bonaparte which will be headquarters once everyone arrives--spitting distance from st suplice---there for sunday mass followed by organ concert and a trip up narrow; spiral staircase that made the steps in the lighthouse at smithy island seem like those in gone with the wind; got to sit on the organ bench; yes kodak moment preserved

up to the sacre cour

entry was a breathtaking moment the mosaic of Christ above the altar; arms outstreched with the mesmirizing blue background---wow

made me think of my favorite part of handels messiah---when the soprano sings---and suddenly there was with the angel; a multidude; of the heavely hosts; praising God; and saying--and then the gloriq begins---glory to god___much preferred over the hallelujah chorus

heard about another organ concert at notre dame at 430-line had at least 250 people in it::::you know i dont like lines;;;skipped it

did go to saint chapelle; incredible stained glass; much smaller than i imagined

wonderful antiques market near hotel sun and today so far i have bought zip

dustcloud behind providence

if anyone drives through afton and sees dust billowing behind the church towards the back of the cemetary it is mary louise limer turning in her grave

she taught us at the warren county mem library to respect books

i have ripped rick steves guide to europe to shreds why carry the whole book around
just tear out what u need and keep going::: after blogging; those pages go in the garbage

disposing of even 1 piece of paper out of the back pack is like cleaning out a box full from the attic

more on the matterhorn in next blog

arrived paris last night:::french keyboard is most challenging yet

one thing momma required was to take typing:::thought on train the other day how thankful i was for this::watching so;mle poor critter hunt and peck :she ,ade ,e take all 3 parts at wchs:::had to do last trimester self study with ,ary shields mary would die with this french keyboard:::but shes already dead;;;with this french keyboard i am hunting and pecking M is out of place:::,ost challenging

arles france beautiful roman arena there better than rome still in use missed bullfight by a day....ratz seats 20000 van gogh museum a waste mostly tributes from others to him


avignon
vatican actually moved here for a century or so
palace of the popes pretty iimpressive
palace square in middle w stqtue of an elephant got photo xw elephant

didnt know where to go so took train to macon

got off walked up 2 cars and got back on the train:::to dijon
nothing looked good in macon not even a long rider bar

dijon great town did city walking tour
didnt buy mustard

first joke macey taught us was
what do u give an elephant w diareahea
plenty of room

circus kirk came to warrenton wendy was too little to go
circus peeps bought hay from gan macey delivered to elephant tent
took sarah and me to elephant tent
very dark no lights
momma stepped in elephant poop
up to her ankles
sarah and are still laughing 30 years plus later
viv didnt laugh

elaine cole,an also taught us to respect books
a folded page was cardinal sin
elaine and junell blaylock brought me to europe twice in high school

both would be shocked i know to know that i am not keeping maps::::again:::gotta rid the pack of garbage

oh the weather outside is frightful...baby its cold outside

arrived in lucerne around noon monday...spent an hour or so with the train people-planners working on this week in switzerland...dwight pearce recommended i begin this adventure in lucerne...finally made it on day 31...beautiful, quaint city. probably wouldnt be friends with dwight had i not worked for macon and gladys..another reason to be thankful for leaving the grocery store...some folks will give you the shirt of their back...with dwight...the tie from around his neck...cant recall if i was still in high school or at pfeiffer, but at the landmark one night, i complimented him on his necktie...he gave it to me...i about wore it out and still have it...wonder how much i have paid to have it in storage for 2 years...

switzerland is expensive

i love snow...its magical...i am like a 3 year old...cant wait for it to fall...accumulate and get out in it...still...as a kid...there was so much to do...watch the weather to see if bob debarbeladen was going to let us know if warren academy would be closed...make sure that mimi steed knew it was going to snow...she always made popcorn balls whenit snowed...gotta be sure sheäs ready...ma had to make boiled custard...for the snowcream....but only after the first snow...cant eat the first snow...not sure why...but just cant...then...if ma got the custard made...had to wait all freakin day for it to cool so that we could have snowcream for supper...

snow here...3100 meters up...gornegrad...30 minutes up by train from zermatt. gorgeous. nothing here but the train station, hiking trails and a hotel with about 30 rooms. i have one of em...with view of the matterhorn...incredible...will be moreso when the clouds move away...hopefully...in the morning...estimate about 200-300 meters of matterhorn not visible...clouds have moved about all afternoon...incredible views from all sides of the top of this peak...when you hike about 300 meters from the hotel...you can actually here the waterfalls....way, way, away, can barely see that they are in fact waterfalls...from the melting glaciers

being up here reminds me somewhat of being on the chesapeake...the sky, snow and mountains change constantly

most expensive night thus far...but includes dinner and breakfast...hope its all u can eat...while the carpet is a lot like the oceana at atlantic beach...the view is beyond description...even with clouds...and not only do i have a television, 2 towels, 2 hand towels, did i mention the window with a view...but also a hair dryer...used it just cause i could

while i am not typically superstitious...save for not eating the first snow...there are a few i keep in mind...one is about weeping willow trees...have thought about this one a lot...there are more weeping willow trees i think than people in europe...they are everywhere...a very wise person told me years ago...you dont cut down a weeping willow tree...if you do, someone in your family will die...her momma did, death followed for a family member shortly thereafter. she said you dont f with them. someone gave me a weeping willow tree a few years ago...i gave it back.

lots of hikers up here...shared table with some who hiked from zermatt up...about 3 hours...i ALMOST did the appalachian trail instead of europe...but since i dont like bugs, snakes and sleeping on the ground...determined that was not for me

lots of rooftops made of stone...not slate...not sure what it is....varying sizes of shingles...took photo for friend and roofer bill hamlin

train came through st nicklaus today...must be where santa and mrs claus spend the summer...or leave with the reindeer become inflamed with gas

beautiful gardens seen from train today...lots of lettuces, squash, onions....

the best version of baby its cold outside has to be dolly parton and rod stewart

the hills are alive...

salzburg has edged out florence...great city

arrived thurs afternoon by train from vienna...bus into town...straight to pension...frau christine said she didnt have a room for me...i had emailed...but had not heard back...she found room for one night...hall wc and shower...no big deal...34 euro. friday morning...went to local market...bought 5 euro bouquet of fresh flowers...christine booked me for last night and tonight...bigger room, own shower, shared wc...king sized bed...2 singles together...should have bought more flowers...maybe she would have bought be a box spring, 40 euro per night, includes good breakfast...2 blocks from everything...of course no a-c

en route to salzburg...train to melk from vienna...then danube river cruise to krem...absolutely breathtaking scenery...boat docked at small village...spitz...feel certain must be home to the ancestors of unc classmate chris spitzhoff

bfast at pension on friday am...then onto city tour-self guided as outlined by my bff, rick steves

motzart plaza, residenyplatz, designed by prince-archbishop wolf dietrich...incredible fountain...in sound of music...hereafter -som-...i have confidence in me song...residence there...large building where the nazi flag was unfurled in som...salzburg cathedral...mozart was organist here for 2 years...local market...st peters church...cemetery....inspiration for som cemetery scene.....past the festival hall where inside was filmed the scene, som, at the festival with uncle max...and edelweiss w-christopher plummer crying...most austrians dont know this song...was rogers and hammerstein tune

scorers...local watering hole, since 1903...now managed by michael...4th generation...assisted by family friend joseph...they recommended going to several restaurants...including alz saltzburg and beverly. michael serves terrific homemade apricot liq. awesome...new drinking buddy, 83 year old ludwig...laughed at me first visit because i had what i thought was an enameled colandar, bought from a flea market...rann may be back...turns out it is something to make cheese dumplings with...ludwigs wife was making them for lunch...didnt invite me home, but echoed michaels recommendation for the beverly

beverly has become the hayes barton cafe for me of austria....have had 4 meals there...first and the most recent were cheese dumplings and a salad...manfried has owned the place for 19 years...down a side street...got to know it to find it...kitchen is tiny...i mean tiny..barely room for the 2 people who work in it to turn around...not sure how they do it...ive been to the door to compliment them twice. gabby is the waitress...my queen of austria....have also had there pork snitzel and the best brats and sauerkraut ever...dessert not bad either

dinner friday was at alz saltzburg...one of the best meals i have had and certainly the most expensive by far...had set 5 course meal beginning with gooseliver pate...awesome...the deer, served medium rare...did not live up to expectations...brother in law lee short must come over and instruct how to prepare properly...sat beside a great couple from tokyo...my japanese is non-existent...their english...sketchy...we had a great time...they had a great sense of humor, laughing at the restaurant, each other and me...akira hasegawa and wife...he is the senior director of asset management for the development center of walmart in japan...perhaps i should send him my resume...very nice...he kept checking his blackberry for emails from bentonville...i took it away from him...his bride thought it was hysterical...when he speaks of the waltons, he aint talking about mary ellen and corabeth.

huge fortress which has protected the city for over 1,000 years...in fact, never attacked...finally went up yesterday...hot as the devil on that hill...no breeze in fortress, stayed 10 minutes, and back down...did visit the church at the abbey from som.

som tour was great...kinda cheesy but great...3 people from michigan, 4 from greensboro and me...we knew all the songs and sang many...had to request edelweiss at the end...we had missed that one. visited...real von trapp family house, front and rear facades of house shot in the movie, the wedding church, many other sites too. family from greensboro...eric, wife...tammy i think, daughter and her best friend...girls will be sophomores at caldwell day in gboro. he is a consultant, travels back and forth to vienna constantly....81 grad of appalachian...favorite professor was my very dear friend harry davis...my family and warrenton folks may remember that we had harrys late wife ann on the prayer list off and on for years at providence. harry is father of carrington. i am going to have to reconnect eric and harry.

also stopped to ride a luge...mechanism pulled me up the mountain on a little seat...sliding up on a stainless still track...reminded me of the train up the side of the mountain at ghost town in the sky in maggie valley...straight up...then, off and into what is something like a log flume...and down you go...pretty cool...might make the christmas card

at wedding church...lady decorating altar with sunflowers...thought first of anne harris...i am very fortunate to have lots of friends as an adult who were parents of friends when i was a kid...including anne and jack...we had so much fun going to katherine´s renewal of wedding vows in january....wis they were here with me now

turns out lady was florist...who along with her husband...were decorating the church for a wedding the following day....it was spectacular....sunflowers and ivy everywhere...and huge trashcans overflowing with stems and debris and debris all over the altar...thought i was home with gladys and macon....when gladys hired me...almost 25 years ago...to work at the landmark...someone told me not to quit my job at byrds...checking groceries...that macon and gladys didnt stick with anything long....theyve stuck with me for 25 years...damn glad i gave up checking groceries. this is also the longest time since 1986 that i have gone without talking to them. floral couple looked beat...if we had had more time, i could have helped...perhaps earned some euros to spread along the way

glenda, pronounced...ga-linda, was tour guide on som tour...she also drives horses and buggies in town...she saw me today...told her paying customers that she was picking up her friend and i got to ride up front for a tour of the city...i bought her a pizza afterwards, so it worked out for both of us

must watch som upon return to raleigh

tour to hitlers eagles nest...very interesting...hitler didnt like going...had to ride elevator up....he was claustrophobic...and he didnt like heights...only visited 7 or so times...structure is pretty much just a restaurant now...but beautiful scenery all around. on this tour...college kid from ireland...here to work in irish pub for 2 months...couple from sarasota...dean and candy...super nice...and 2 couples from nashville tn...they did not know my unc bud jeff edwards or his peeps.

both husbands are retired methodist ministers...dean and sarah have a place a lake junaluska...said he had recently read that the western conference is having a special, called conference...i told him that i hoped it was to give more money to pfeiffer...we both doubt it....carolyn and her preacher husband whose name i cannot recall...also super nice...served 41 years in louisiana and alabama...both couples working for a tour company as guides...no pay...but expenses are paid....ed told me that 10 years ago, this company brought 10,000 people over to the passion play...this year...half that many

this morning, high mass at the cathedral...left early in order to make the festival...had to go...but thought i was going to be in the concert hall where the flight scene from som was shot...incorrect...concert still good, about 70 pieces...vienna philharmonic...no idea what they played...too tight to buy 4 euro program....not going to carry it around for 3 more weeks...so hey

after lunch...did the tour of the concert hall where flight scene shot...snuck photo on stage with the arcade behind...not enough time to sing all of edelweiss

had planned to go to switzerland today...but didnt want to ride a train today...so in the am...not sure yet where...but time to move

vienna

arrived vienna on tuesday afternoon, walked 10 min from train station to pension...had own toilet and shower...heaven...no ac...learning to live without it...not as hot here and no humidity to speak of

walked around some and had dinner at a place recommended, imagine, by rick steves...zu eberner erde und erster stock...thought maybe would be some of paul stocks peeps...and paul, passed near budapest on the train a golf course...horrible condition...literally in a field-slums...you will not want to bring alex macfayden and others here to play for your next guys golf week abroad...good dinner near museums

wednesday did the vienna city walk recommended by rick steves...scheduled for an hour...took over 6....great, relaxing...saw tons...opera....went on the stage...reminded me of time in dc with friend clem seifert from henderson...friend in dc, mickey, who books for kennedy center took us on stage...2 rednecks from henderson-warrenton on stage at national opera...pretty cool

had famous chocolate-apricot cake at cafe sacher...then onto the albertinaplaty art museum...monet...picasso...and 2 exhibitions of american artists...alex katz...seemed familiar...perhaps we have one at ncma?...and walton ford...loved both...cathedral...stephansplatz with multicolored, tiled rooftop...dorotheum auction house...no purchases made...holy trinity plague column-built by leopold 1 to thank God for saving city from plague

also st peters church...then, as in glory days of rome...seems a life time ago...back to room for nap...didnt actually go to sleep, but rested for an hour...then to tour the hofburg castle complex...enough china, crystal and silver to have one helluva christmas party...aint no party like a christmas party cause a christmas party dont stop...quote by chris smith, columbia sc...party man...also sis museum...recalling empress elisabeth, quite the eccentric old witch...and the imperial apartments

wonderful street-film festival infront of city hall...lots of different food stations from various countries...had a taco type salad from mexico with sangria...kept trying to figure out the beautiful lady at the table with me...twin of janet chesson of raleigh who is on the board at the museum of history with me...down to eyes and smile...her husband, hans, i think i heard her say, is not twin to janets wes

other twins spotted...beth elam from warrenton now of raleigh and lauren rutherford, former colleague at ncba


people here say the second world war...not world war two as we do

broke my international traveling rule...nothing american...ie starbucks or mcdonalds

had to have a sprite...just needed something fizzy...stephie harty u know what i am talking about...dove into mickey dees...best 1.79 euro spent...crushed ice...sprite from the fountain...can it get any better

i cannot be in chapel hill at the west end wine bar at 6 pm on saturday night...but if any of u can...please go to cheer on the chris hendricks band...my unc bud, michael sullivan is in the band and they are having their cd release party...for those of you who have received a cd compilation from me this summer...almost all have one of michael´s tunes on it...typically...a winters end...my favorite of sullivans...promises to be a great evening...sullivan thinks i should open a bed and breakfast...meet new people, interact with people, entertain, enjoy antiques...but after 4 weeks of worrying the snot out of the innkeepers with whom i have stayed, probably this is not for me

major street construction going on in prague...made me feel at home...on glenwood

saw a deer in a field while on the train yesterday...lucky for bambi i wasnt in one of the many deer stands i have seen...they seem awfully close together...about 50 yards---oops, i mean meters, apart

met guy waiting for train who had ipod stolen, was in a 6 person compartment...went to sleep listening to tunes...woke up, no ipod

bought myself some way cool silver turtle cufflinks...silver-turtles, combined in one...some of you know i collect turtles...turtles dont like the way things are going...stop...tuck in...wait for it to pass....of course if it is an 18-wheeler...not such a good thing

austria-hungarian empire

its thursday afternoon, early evening. arrived budapest by train early am on tuesday. decided to see the city by boat from the danube rather than hoofing it across the cobblestones...bought ticket from 2 young people on the square in front of st marys church...sophie, 16, first job...very personable...offered to walk me to the boat...sold...think she was bored...nice young girl...hannah domenech...i do not want you selling tickets to strangers on any square in albemarle or anywhere else...very relaxing, 2 hour tour...around margaret island...saw parliament, the castle, fancy hotels, etc....most of the boat was filled with older, very beautiful women from japan...i think perhaps the emporer literally sent a boat load of geishas to budapest...very informative audio tour with history of buda and peche...much of-no-all of which i had forgotten from western civ...then onto vienna

will update more later...this cyber cafe closes at 7 pm...where am i, afton?

the humpty dance is yo chance to do da hump

day 26, hump day...cant believe the trip is over half done

26 days
13 countries
1 day with out shaving
0 cokes
0 haircuts
1 pack of cigarettes purchased
40+train rides
9 overnight trains
0 box springs on beds...could make a fortune with a ship load of those suckers
0 calls home...know if i make 1 call, will want to call everyone i know
1 hotel with wash cloths
1 box of stuff shipped home...another in the making
#? cheap beer consumed...less than zou would imagine...but whose counting
lots of nice people-new friends along the route
at least 6...close encounters with cyclists...have not been hit-run over yet
seems like 100...castles toured
2 bratwursts mealson the street...still best value meals and mightz tastz

salt mine, frog strangler, plums and cherries

last nights train from prague was about 30 minutes late...literally a train load of people were hanging out by the departure monitor waiting for the line to post...hadnt seen anything like that, trip to date. prague train station wins prize for the dirtiest yet.

waited with new friends from cinncinati...joe and tracey....they were on the same train...cars split during the night taking them to warsaw...my car and others to krakow. they are in poland for a about a week, joe on business...trying to get some fun in along the way...just emailed them my day here for their benefit...it really is great sharing and stealing ideas from fellow travelers along the way.

arrived about an hour later than scheduled in poland...krakow...about 745 am...locked george in locker number 122...hit the street...immediately approached by older gentleman...looked like a cross between my uncle raymond paynter and lysle misenheimer...76...driving cabs in this city for 50+ yrs...negotiated fare...sure i still got taken...to the wieliczka salt mine...thought i'd just left the salt mine...humor...great tour...2 hours...about 130 meters below surface...didnt buy any salt as i have rock, kosher, pickling, canning, iodized and non iodized in the pantry at home...plus it weighs a lot...KC dropped me at a traditional polish restaurant...yummy bread with 2 spreads...cottage cheese...more like cream cheese, onions, herbs...and lard...yes lard...with fried lard, apples, herbs and more onions...i thought you used lard for frying chitterlings...will have to add this to my cocktail party buffet next time

followed by beet soup with dumplings...unbelievably good...and then veal with mushrooms and more dumplings...mighty find lunch

castle was closed to tours...did see st marys church and wandered town...market...city center, etc...

huge storm...still going on...break 30 minutes ago...sought refuge in internet cafe...it is more than a frog strangler...more of a frawg strangler...ducked into first open doorway once the downpour was underway...a vodka bar...fate

hadnt had any vodka in 23 days...can still say that about coke...but not vodka...so many choices...like a 3 yr old in a candy store...sampled: lime, peach, honey and spice, plum, cranberry and more...opted for plum and cherries...meeerrrrcy..MERCY. mighty fine, mighty fine. sippin, not slammin shot. learned they also served salads...had a great salad...then, yes, another sippin shot as a digestive afterwards...man of habit, plum and cherries

tonight, overnight to budapest...late tomorrow heading to vienna...2 nights in a hotel...yes...time for laundry

pooped in prague

yep, a bit pooped. needed a break from guided and self-guided tours...any kind of tour for that matter of museums, churches, squares, and castles...so, basically just wandered around prague...had a nice, relaxing time here.

arrived about noon yesterday...did some organizing, had to find a place to stay...the tyn hostel...about 20 bucks...5 to a room, only 3 there last night...nice dude from great britian, weird guy from italy who must've eaten reindeer, made noises all night

yesterday explored the town square and saw the astronomical clock strike 2 and do its magic...walked around jewish quarter and across the charles bridge...pedistrian bridge with vendors, artists and up to the castle...decided didnt want to tour it, so back again. stopped at a great little cafe, owned by husband/wife team, had some ginger tonic, basically ginger ale with some apple strudel. big market going on in the town square...whole hams cooking on spits...opted instead for a polish sausage...maybe a czech sausage...large cup of beer, about 2 bucks

back to hostel for nap...woke up about 10 pm...walked around the corner and had some great pasta with a glass of red czech wine...then back to hostel, stopped on a whim at the bar next door...based in new york and prague...bar and books. nice visit with indiana gal, traci brown, who works in HR for colgate/palmolive, actually their hill's/science diet division in prague. martin was the bartender...scratch that...mixologist...and a darned good one...i had a triple threat...first one in at least a month...lots of ice....the ice was awesome...he tried to take it from me when done...but cant let go of marinated ice

2nd drink was his specialty...cant recall what he called it, but it was rum, cointreau, orange and lime...shaken, up...not bad, but once was enough...then, he insisted...did he ever have to twist my arm...on making me an old fashioned.

he claimed to make the best...i told him that janet coleman holds that honor but to give it a try...janet, if you're reading this, he came in a close second...used 3 different kinds of bitters, including one with cinnamon...gotta find me some of that...orange peel and makers mark...lots of ice...stirred and stirred and stirred some more...then more makers...more stirring...mighty good. janet also adds cherries and club soda...muddling the fruit with a wooden spoon used exclusively for that purpose.

today...more exploration on foot, to the jewish cemetery, to the national history museum...took a picture of it, didnt go in...then to church around the corner...incredible organ music...but no choir...didnt understand a word...except when the guy in front of me turned around to offer the peace...got that...communion...priest dunked the host for us into the wine...which had been watered down considerably. perhaps better to attend services in another language...more time to reflect/worship on your own.

was going to rent a paddle boat, but decided to sit on the dock and drink a beer instead

more street food, including potatoes cooked with cabbage...horrific...wish i could have given it to the lady with the cat described below


tonight, overnight train to krakow poland...

lady in stockholm train station had a cat in a cage/carrier. poor cat...and you know i dont like cats...was crying its heart out...could hear it all over the station...i wanted to shoot its owner

penny loafers with new leather soles that have gotten wet should not be put in large ziploc bags...perfect place for mold to grow...scrubbed what i could off with train towel...then walked all of prague in same weejuns...mold gone

have i told you about the tobacco in copenhagen? twas in a flower bed...smelled it before i saw it...needed to be topped...brought back memories of working for big allen campbell in tobacco...dirtiest i have ever been...but real money in my pocket at 13

hope to add map detailing countries visited...will work on that at suggestion of heather anderson...thanks again to heather for convincing me to leave the navy blazer at home...everytime i see a poor soul wearing one i am thankful...have sent emails to macey and uncle welton urging them to leave theirs at home too...i may organize a blazer burning upon return to raleigh...

ice ice baby

cool bar...all pun intended in oslo...made completely of ice save for the floor and ceiling...had to don a hooded, quilted parka...and lined boots...no place for rainbows...glass made of ice also...great for bourbon on the rocks...rather encased in a rock...frank ballard, karla hehl, lawrence boyd and karl hehl...think we can get ice out of mogotha bay and open one ourselves....

how did i end up in stockholm

planned to spend the day in malamo, sweden. train lady in berlin said to simply get off the train there en route to stockholm...learned on train that the train was to split in the middle of the night...my wagon headed to stockholm...almost switched but determined perhaps fate had me heading this way...glad i chose to come here

most beautiful day yet...breezy, sunny...everyone seems happy, girls in sundresses...makes one long for a friday afternoon at the carolina inn in chapel hill, bluegrass, barbeque and sundresses

toured the city, city hall, nobel museum, riddarholm church...where the monarchy is buried, the apartments in the royal palace, several churches and scores of shops...didnt buy anything...everything is way expensive

bfast...expresso and a slice of a lemon pie with the most beautiful meringue and almonds sliced thinner than ive ever had...delicious

lunch...may be best meal yet...salmon and potatoes with a rich dill sauce...the salmon was fabulous...simple...found it was only marinated in sugar and salt...served raw with dill garnish...unbelievably good.

onto prague...at least thats the plan....

you know dasher and dancer and prancer and vixen...

....comet and cupid and donner and blitzen...but do you recall.....the most famous reindeer of all...do do do...rudolph the red nosed reindeer....this has a point...i promise...read on...

oslo was a beautiful city...visited teh viking ship museum...more remembrances from western civ...the polar exploring ship, FRAM-antarctica and the arctic...the akershus castle and fortress, the royal palace and nobel peace museum...big exhibit there on 2009 winner, obama. also took tram out to the vigeland sculpture park...very interesting...beautiful setting with intriguing sculptures...all nudes...some very compassionate...others borderline pornographic with all in between

saw both oats and alpalfa from train en route...dont know what reindeer eat but i ate reindeer for a late lunch-early dinner...scrumptious...medium rare over turnips, carrots, spinach, snow peas...not sure if oats and alphalfa grown for reindeer or not...also...if the reindeer have as much and as awful gas as the reindeer produced in me...its a wonder santa ever got the sleigh to afton without it crashing

scandanavia blitz begins

copenhagen, home of hans christian anderson...expensive here...walked and walked today, save for a city tour by boat...uncovered, rained...but got to see a bunch and it wasn't crowded...some people were smart enough to stay in doors...the marble church...nothing special really...and the altar cloth was crooked...lula mae hall, who maintains same at providence umc would not have stood for that...the little mermaid is in shanghai, so didnt get to see her...kings gardens were magnificent, rosenborg castle and crown jewels also...castle not used by royals today...more access there with less security than any toured to date...also visited square of the royal residence, amalienborg palace....walked, walked....lots of antique shops today...bought zip

lunch was grand...an ear of roasted corn...that guy knew his business...lots of butter and salt...and when he handed it to me, also gave me a toothpick...in a plastic sleeve...awesome...gotta have one when you eat corn on the cob you know....chewed on the toothpick for about 2 hours...felt like eugene pickler...economics professor extraordinaire at pfeiffer. pickler was also a chicken farmer...used analagies from chicken farming for economics...since ma and gan had paynters egg farm...i could relate. wife janet ran the cultural program at pfeiffer. john branin worked in her office. i had 3 fish my freshman year...bought at walmart in albemarle...2 goldies, 22 cents each, and a beta...dwight was the greeter at walmart. beta ate one fish...john encouraged me to give gabrielle, the other 22 cent goldie, to mrs pickler for her tank in the ad building. rarely visited ole gabrielle. one day my senior year, i received, via campus mail, a card, obviously on nice stationary...twas from mrs pickler informing me of gabrielles demise...4 years for a 22 cent fish from walmart aint bad...and that a small, private ceremony...i think she said amazing grace was sung...was held in the ladies room in the basement of the administration building

forgot a couple twins...sunday morning...i left church about 30 minutes into it...jb martins twin...complete with yellow pants was coming in as i was going out...jb was almost always late for church...god rest his soul

grace miles, complete with cigarette holder, except this lady's was black, grace's was white...when i was a kid she would give me root beer lolly pops at bb&t...this was way back before the bank bought the warehouse, tore it down and added on...back when the loan officers were in cubes down the left side...she'd be on the telphone...rotary dial, 1970s green i think, smoking that cigarette...she was sexy...like joan collins on dynasty...and yes, i have told grace that though i didnt know it at 3, i thought she was sexy

and traudel williamson, mother of marget ballard...lady had on same outfit she did when we had brunch last month, white, from head to toe, 6 in heels...traudel and margets dad, joe, met in germany when he was in the service. he convinced her to come to the us...they married shortly thereafter and will celebrate 50 years of bliss next may...

afternoon snack at a deli...i am not starving afterall on this trip...husband wife team...she looked like carol channing...thought she would break out singing diamonds are a girls best friend at any moment...made me a scrumptious sandwich of salami, cheese, cucs, lettuce and tomatoes...toasted bread...i went across the street while she was making it to buy a beer, to wash it down with...she wrapped the bread in white paper...not waxed, just white paper, 2 paper towels, all together with a rubber band....service...floor was brick with sawdust...reminded me of the meat department in norlina at the red and white 37 years ago...raymond robertson ran the butcher shop...durwood johnson managed and i think aa wood was involved...but i may have that confused with the warrenton red and white...gan and i delivered eggs every thursday am...he'd pick me up at 530...i stood on the seat of the pick up beside him...stops i remember, in addition to the red and whites were alstons store on 1001, odell's grill, across from warren general hospital, the hospital, a&p

tonight's overnight train takes me to oslo...i will have to stay awake long enough to at least see the sea we cross by ferry

Berlin...no wall

arrived berlin monday am via overnight train from heidelberg. couchette...basically a seat that reclines 2 1-2 inches...michelle said sunday that she didnt know a man who couldnt sleep in a chair...true...me included...but mercy

invested a chunk of time with the bahn -train- people determining trains for this week to avoid couchettes and get beds

being monday, lots of museums closed...started berlin tour, walking, at the brandenberg gate, then a leisurely stroll down unter den linden, main street, if you will

2,711 gravestones in the memorial to murdered jews of europe...stirring memorial, invites quiet, reflection...reminded me in a sense of arlington...basically concrete, gray rectangles, 'graves'...same dimensions width x length, but different height depending on the lay of the land...some 2 ft, some 12 ft+...gray, simple, sturdy concrete...number there is simply how many fit the property...no representation by the 2,711

train stopped at potsdam plaza...bustling place pre ww2, basically a no-mans land after as on the border of east-west berling. now with the wall down, sony and others have corporate towers there

attop the brandenburg gate, chairot and horses statue taken by napoleon when he defeated the prussians in 1806, brought back after prussians defeated him 7 years later...how in the heck did they get that thing up and down...imagine the jubilation here in 1989 when the wall came down

portions of the wall remain...estimated 12 feet high only 4-6 inches thick...rebar enforced

as i type this country music playing...first ive heard...in music store next door...now in train station in copenhagen...reminds me a bit of ellis island...lots of brick, wood and steel beams...back to music...garth brooks, if tomorrow never comes...sung by someone else, i guess a dane

us embassy doesnt give tours, i asked

hitlers bunker is under a parking garage 200 meters from memorial to the jews

walked past french and russian embassies too

visied the catholic st hedwigs church, aka upside down teacup...got its name because frederick the great turned a teacup upside down to show the architect what he wanted

visited german history museum...primarily a chronology of german history from charlemagne to the present...if i had my notes from warren county high western civ with charlie holmes, i think i could have followed it

speaking of history, our museum, the nc museum of history, is preparing for the george washington exhibit, the only museum in the southeast to have it, beginning in september...make plans to go...and to do your christmas shopping in the shop...lynn and the ladies there wrap...awesome...and i have been in at least 2 dozen museum shops...havent seen one yet to top ours...truly....

berlin cathedral...visited both days attending 6 pm services both...great service, in at 6, out at 630...incredible organ pre and postludes...unbelievable...the organist on Tuesdazy had it 'gagged wide open' as katherine paige harris young would say...could feel my brain shaking inside my skull...expected the stained glass in the dome to shatter and come crashing down around us at any moment...back to the service...brief homily, prayer, Lord's prayer, hymn and out the door, give offering as you depart

spent an hour monday laying on the grass in front of the cathedral...street musicians...beautiful day...big fountain...just looking at the clouds...as howard lee stultz, music teacher in high school used to say when he wanted us to be still...just contemplating my navel

dinner was great...tiny place on the street, rigatoni with the coldest beer, polish, i have had, about 7 euro

Tuesday, took george to the station and put him in the locker for the day

long walk through the tiergarden, basically a huge park, toured musical instruments museum...trying to make up for the exhibit missed in florence...great audio guide, with options to hear selections being played on various instruments

wurlitzer theatre organ in the center...demonstration ongoing upon arrival...interesting to hear and listen to german being translated to mandarin for the chinese group there

visited the kennedy museum...good for a little does of us history...molly harty would love this one...jfk and jbk had a tremendous reception during their time in berlin by the people here

also had a photography exhibit there of obama's people...3-4 length shots of various folks in administration from valerie jarret to reggie love to hilary...actually very good

relaxing lunch, 3 courses, special, 10 euro...awesome tomato soup...followed by boiled beef with potatoes and carrots...truly mommas in the crock pot is better...then a berry ice cream...surprise of the day was the strawberry served with the ice cream...looked like a 'hot house' berry...but tasted fresh plucked from the strawberry patch...the first taste of spring...we used to go, ma, gan and i, to dickersons strawberry farm in vicksboro...just past shocco church and pick buckets and buckets and more buckets...i ate a bunch too. i also remember going with howell steed there once...cant remember if mimi went too or not.

checkpoint charlie museum...was just too much...too much info in a small space with hordes of people...no line to get in, but i think everybody who came since easter was still in that unairconditioned space...stayed 10 minutes and escaped. checkpoint is still there...also a large section of the wall near by

bought nelson demille's gate house to read on the train this week...on sale, less than 5 euro...paperback...but printed in the hardback format...not a 'slender' version

planned to tour riechstag at days end...but line literally had about 400 people in it...no way

then on overnight train to copehagen...train cars put aboard ferry overnight...as i did not completly grasp the german language, i understood it to be that we would get off the train, board ferry at some point during the night...2 am...i set my alarm for 145...woke up...train still rolling...thought id stay awake...next thing i knew, 315...thought i had missed the boat...literally

no conductor in sight...looked like we were either on board a ship or in a warehouse...turns out on ship...never saw the dang water

went to bathroom at 630...grabbed key to my cabin...only to learn that it was the key to the shower...had locked myself out. luckily conductor returned at 7 and let me in

nice german lady and son in next cabin...she spoke excellent english...gave her my 'true blue' by david baldacci...they were heading to sweden for 2 weeks, cabin in the woods...meeting husband there...son had appendix removed last week, so they took the train

thought i would miss ice, dont

do miss splenda...havent seen a packet anywhere

love expresso...drink with lots of sugar...need that damned splenda...no cream-milk...wonder if i will be able to drink coffee at home now without cream...

staley gentry is right...attitude is everything

twins spotted...kevin pack of raleigh on a bike...also on a bike...the late cassie jones of warrenton, including hat with feather, 2 separate sightings, different people, liz fentress of raleigh, leslie white of greenville, david windell, friend from grad school of raleigh, ransi somerante, also unc bud, of raleigh, dawn coleman of rabbit bottom and mark goldhaber of raleigh down to the position of glasses on his nose and the way he holds a cell phone

this morning while crossing a large body of water...by bridge...saw huge windmill farm in the water

frank ballard...im working on being more positive

best meals in berlin...dinner last night, lunch monday, bratwurst with mustard and ketchup, bought from same guy...i am a creature of habit...1.2 euro...awesome...guy actually had a grill strapped around his waist...dont want to do that

lesson from vivian...check pockets prior to doing laundry...missed one and spiral bound notebook didnt survive...was able to capture data on 2 pages of notes from francois for paris...others...disaster

lesson learned from macey...lifting toilet seat with foot...comes in great daddy on the train...not always a clean area

when you have an opportunity to wash your hands with hot water and soap, do it

photos taken, 899

the berlin train station is huge...2 grocery stores in it...passed a shoe store monday...little beach music action going on there...sugar pie, honey bunch, you know that i love you, can't help myself, i want you and nobody else...i was the only guy shaggin' on the concourse