Saturday, September 11, 2010

normandy

the most incredible day of the journey

christine gentry told me to be prepared for an emotional day...she was right

jacques perreau, our guide for the day, met us at the hotel at 9...recommended by randy and sally worth...thanks worths!

he was 4 at the time of the war...family lived in trenches...slept on straw...although his momma told him not to go outside when plans were flying over, he did, and was hit by shrapnel...barely missing his carotid artery...has been a guide for 26 years...70 years old

may have to edit this one later...not sure i have everything in notes....

this was main purpose of the trip our vietnam vets, welton-air force and macey-navy seabees, wanted to make this journey

started with a visit to the german cemetary...from 1944-1947, americans and germans buried in same cemetaries...then separated and many families wanted their boys brought home...and many were returned

the germans are buried 2 per grave...stones out of lava stone...almost black....you dont see many flowers here...visits from families are low key as many are ashamed of involvement...impressive yet simple visitors center featuring many letters...tear jerkers

onto village where paratrooper was trapped on steeple of church and museum there

700 tons of bombs were dropped in advance of invasion...toured this area adjacent to utah beach

uncle herman landed at utah beach...walked out into ocean and back....difficult to imagine what he saw that day...today, children playing, dogs barking, people sunning...no blood in the water as he described....only heard him talk about it once...on a return trip from washington, thad, jan and I think paul and i stopped...thad asked him about it and he shared some...i missed most of it unfortunately as i was desperately trying to get the subject changed, aunt e did not want him to talk about it...dont know if he had bad dreams or what...but she was livid...truly the only time i ever remember her being mad...she was....need to get together with charlotte, payne and derek to make notes on what we all know about his time there....daddy said they slept with the horses and cows at night to stay warm

learned that papa nunnery worked on liberty ships in wilmington...building them... and that aunt judith was born in wilmington...didnt know that...injured men could receive shots of morphine...up to 3...so as not to overdose them...needles were pinned to their shirt collars so the nurses/docs would know how many they had received

uncle herman served in pattons army...was an MP

visited pont du hoc...i wondered if the sea gulls were there on d day

while i cannot speak for the others, for me, the time on utah beach alone, walking into and from the surf, where uncle herman was, had a deeper impact than the time we spent at omaha beach did

the american cemetary experience was beyond description...but here goes

uncle larry's uncle joseph...mokie's brother, was killed at normandy...cousin joseph is named for him....aunt louise had an orchid arrangement made in bayeux to lay at his grave, as she promised her father in law she would

upon arrival, our guide had a representative from the cemetary to meet us...she took us, in a large golf cart, directly to joseph's grave...marked with a simple, stark-white, marble cross. there, she and uncle welton brushed sand, from omaha beach into the engraving so that you could better see his name, rank and date of death...excess was then sponged off...very simply but movingly done...she then left us, after placing flags, american and french

louise then laid the flowers...i'm getting emotional just typing this

louise asked welton, earlier in the day, retired national guard chaplain, to say a prayer

the six of us encircled joseph's marker, kneeling, held hands and welton offered an incredibly moving and appropriate prayer...perhaps other words as well...and then we closed together, reciting the Lord's Prayer.

our guide jacques, arranged for our vets to fold the flag as the cemetary was closing for the day...this was a tremendous honor for both and an emotional time for all...as a chaplain, welton has received the flag for presention to the family---which I know he does so well--many times...but had never folded...macey had not either. they did an incredible job with no stripes showing. afterwards, the flag was presented to andy anderson, superintendent of the cemetary and we had family photos.

there are 2 flags there, the second was folded by world war ii veteran, whitney mullen, 90 yrs old, of burlington, former professor at elon college and his son, richard mullen of pensacola, florida, also a veteran. their camera was dead so we took lots of photos of their ceremony to send upon return home...really special to be a part of both for all 4 vets

afterwards, we walked with andy to a grave as he wanted to share a love story with us. we went to the grave of billie harris...he pointed out that in front of billie's cross the grass wasn't as green as the others...as he receives more flowers than any other soldier...or boy...as the french call them...as the boys came to save them

there was in fact a single rose there that day

billie obviously died on d day or shortly after. once the cemetary was created, attempts were made to find his wife, peggy, by people in the village where he died...i cant recall the circumstances of his death...will have to check with the others...but the villagers never forgot him...and around 2000...they found peggy. she had moved from their town several times. since then, she comes to visit his grave several times each year.

a few months ago, andy was sharing this story with a group of marines and it just so happened that peggy walked up...andy stopped, and asked peggy if she would finish the story...and she did....afterwards, a young marine said something like, mrs harris, i notice that you never remarried, why not...she answered...when we took our vows, it was until death do us part....billie kept his vow and i have kept mine

andy also took us, along with the mullens, to a grave of a soldier known only to God where flowers had been left...with this note:
your sacrifice is remembered for barbara m. oski, b. 1 oct 1928, warsaw, poland
enslaved POW, germany, age 16, M.D. Harvard, age 24
thank you
--her son




it was a special day and i wished a lot of people could have been there to share it with us:

robert monk, who i never got to have a veterans day with in washington...thought there was plenty of time but there wasnt

my cousins, charlotte, derek and payne reamy to recall the service of uncle herman

art and alice keeney for the sacrifice his dad made

ruxton and nancy bobbit, as ruxton is a huge history buff

shields and carolyn pittman who participate each year in the wreath laying ceremony at the national cemetary in raleigh

larry, catherine, warren and joseph stancil to have been a part of the ceremony for uncle joseph

staley and christine gentry, if only our time this summer could have been at the same time on this date

ed miles for the sacrifices his family made here

frank and marget ballard who do more kind, quiet things for veterans of world war ii than i know or they would ever admit too

for darren, troy and robert hales to have been with their dad

but most of all my sisters so that we could all have shared in this day with our dad in appreciation for his service and to remember that of uncle herman who was indeed a third grandfather to us

someones in the kitchen with dinah

such a great experience at the cordon bleu...11 of us...retired couple from dallas and their grown daughters...young couple from mexico-she's french, he's entering cordon bleu in mexico city for pastry chef program, young atty from australia...and 3 ladies from johnson city, tn...one, lisa, reminded me so much of friend annette anderson in raleigh...immediately bonded with her and her pals, teri (we sat beside each other and used the S word a lot) and DJ--twin of carolyn coleman beale....this was twin day as the chef had the same stance and mannerisms of former colleague roger earnhardt

lisa is starting a food blog and has written a cookbook. she inspired me to get cracking on the one i said i was going to do...adding it to the list...they were great fun...told them how much i missed country music...these ladies from tennessee--what's the deal?---are not country music gals...DJ said that she had recently been to nashville though and said she saw a t shirt: shit happens and we sing about it...must get jeff edwards' dad to send me one!---sometime when in asheville, they are going to meet me at razzas for dinner

2 hours at the market...fascinating...wish marget ballard could have been with me

lots of food when we returned including shrimp salad in avacados...reminded me of margaret britts shrimp mold...a must for christmas night....good at easter, ground hawg day and bastille day too...but always tastes like christmas night....margaret, lets have duck with orange sauce this year!

cooking demo...mushroom flan, herb encrusted lamb, incredible fig and strawberry tart

not sure if i've blogged about this or not, but after class, rushed to notre dame to meet louise...saint chappelle was built to house the crown of thorns which a french king had bought from another impoverished monarch....when saint chapelle suffered a fire, the relic was moved to the treasury at notre dame...it is shown 13 times a year...on good friday...and the first friday of each month at 3.

i missed much of the service, but did get to see and kneel before it...encased in glass...looks more like a grapevine wreath than what i imagined the crown to look like...but who knows...impressive service

watch your step

while at the british cemetary, aunt louise was cold, and therefore returned to the van...macey was done and he accompanied her...sidewalk about 1 in difference at passenger side, she fell...swore macey to secrecy...thought she was ok...by days end...not so okay...so viv, auntie louise and rann...driver extraordinnarie of stick shifts now, to the hospital....first 2 hospitals we went to were psyc wards...thought i could get a 2 for 1 and admit momma and louise..haha...but finally found emergency room...said we could see the doc in 5 hours....they loved the fact that louise had insurance...she was prepared to pay with credit card or cash if need be...they assured her that she would get a bill when she got home...they really didnt seem worried, no credit card for assurance or anything.

luckily...nothing broken...just bruised...so 5 hours later, return to hotel

doc prescribed 4 medications...total cost...less than 23 euro...unbelievable...what's the deal at home?

road trip

left out a twin, mollie mcinnis, the future of the mcinnises from high point, now a senior at wofford, on the train to versailles yesterday

i want a dog

this trip has created in me a thirst for knowledge...art, culture, history

after geriatrics' arrival saturday, straight to giverny for monet's home and gardens, great to see both after and before seeing so many of his works here in paris...wished that marie martin could have been with us to enjoy the gardens

then onto bayeux...welton and daddy slept most of way...momma too excited to sleep, aunt judith appeared on brink of collapse...louise in charge of 'garmin' gps in english...thanks again beth fleishman for a great recommendation...provided great directions...i do HATE roundabouts...hope to avoid hillsborough street at all costs upon return to raleigh

bayeux tapestry...incredible...tells story of william the conquerer...best audio guide in europe...walks you through, panel, by panel, 50+ of them

to cathedral, one of my favs....entrance at street level...huge doors, flung wide open as though welcoming arms...isnt that the way churches are suppossed to be? clear stained glass, allowing light to come in so that you can see and appreciate the sanctuary and its architecture

dinner, la coline d'enzo, recommended by hotel...best presentation of the 50 days here

hotel d'argous...built in 1700s, beautiful...drive int o courtyard with drive lined with boxwoods in large green planters on either side...as you approach the entrance...lots of grape/salad tomatoes...loaded...had niece emily domenech been with us....there would be none left...she eats tomatoes like a rabbit...loves em...thought of emily often on this trip...realized that i have never had a day with just emily...had many with hannah when she was little...and with hamp and wil...must get to albemarle and do something fun with emily...she reminds me so much of sarah when she was her age...in build...eyes-though hers are brown, sarah's are green...both sisters have sweet, great kids...its fun to be with them...especially when they are all together and their moms are back home...i have much better time with them than they do with me, i am sure

the stinky guy just left the internet cafe...perhaps for a shower....now how will i stay awake?

flowers everywhere at the hotel...beautiful gardens...and pumpkins at the front door...first of the fall...is it fall already?

always think of anne harris when i see a pumpkin...she took all of us...about 60 think, to pilot to the pumpkin farm when we were in god squad...i had 8 dollars...thought i must spend it all...and did, on the biggest pumpkin ever grown...they should have taken it to raleigh for the state fair...had no money for supper at mcdonalds in louisburg...betty oneal bought me a burger...anne told me that day that if she heard mrs harris out of my mouth one more time she was going to slap me silly, to call her anne...have been ever since...still haven't shut up

also think about the hartys when i see pumpkins. halloween was big at 221. stephie was the leader of the punkin carving...one year, i got real nervous...430...about 40 pumpkins lining the sidewalk out front...both sides, as directed by stephie...scooped out, candles in them...but not carved...she screeched to a halt about 435....trick or treaters come in warrrenton about 5 pm...so i was real nervous...anna britt molly and i sat on the steps and watched...she was like a hurricane...got them all carved, brilliantly and we had them lit and ready by 5 or shortly thereafter...jeff and i always lamented about the expense of halloween...first year, i had over 300 kids...did learn to buy candy canes...kids loved em, first of the season, parents thought i was nuts, but they were 18 for a buck at the dollar store...cost effective trick or treating!

loved halloween in warrenton, took day off, made sweet potato pies, veg soup, lunch and dinner for friend and neighbors

the wemyss kids, anna macon, morgan leigh, levi and jacob were in charge at my house...think that is because todd told me after first year that anna macon would like to come to my place...not many trick or treaters across from WGC or in creek...knew what that was like, having grown up in afton...big deal for me to have wemyss kids at my place...all like family...always feel grounded after time at todd and claudias...first year, jacob and levi dressed as bums sprawled across my front steps...scared the bejesus out of many folks...following year...i had a manequin...as in a corpse, on a table draped in sheets, they got underneath and grabbed the ankles of people who dared to check out the 'body'

when i lived at haities, loved halloween, no trick or treaters back there...cocktail party for me...first drink at sandra and travis's, then to mary catherine and jimmy's onto anne and jacks...around the corner to the boyds---velvet and lawrence...continuing around to jennifer and davids and ending up at anna britt and molly's....crawl back through the bushes....did i take off the day after halloween back then???probably needed to

back to europe....leaving normandy, went to mt st michel....biggest crowds there of anywhere...got there at low tide....tide changes there by 40 ft...lots of climbing

picnic at roadside with great view afterwards

onto chartres...recommendation of david rupp...david and his brother had a similar adventure to mine 20+ years ago...57 days...said cathedral was best part...so i had to go...definitely a highlight...cathedral built to house relic...veil of mary...we climbed...except louise...more on that in next blog...to the top of the tower...great views...can see for 60+kilometers on clear day....spiral all the way...near top, 2 jerks had used the bathroom...how common...should have waited to return to bottom, cant imagine relieving myself in a church...but had it been a dire emergency, i would have done it via the gargoyles to see if they worked, haha

lambrith--know this spelling is incorrect...in nave...thought of mary catherine harris, only person i know with her own....lots of chairs in nave, so couldnt walk it...obvious that when you finish, you're facing the Cross

spent almost 3 hours here...incredible cathedral...being restored now...part of it looks like new, like ted echols' cast stone...must go back when complete

entry to cathedral great...lots of beggers in europe at entrance to cathedral...here...older man had flowers in hand...singing a hallellujah song i didnt' recognize, when he found out we were from the states, belted out he's got the whole world in his hands, then with our crazy singing uncle, when the saints go marching in...ladies all go flowers, he got 3 euro, everyone happy

funeral at st sulpice

attended, honestly-by accident, the last few minutes of a funeral at st sulpice last thurs...appeared to be for young man as little kids followed widow out of cathedral...undertakers very upset with some folks at back of church who didnt have the good raising to stand...held up recessional

interesting to watch...casket in center aisle with huge candles at each corner...flowers underneath...feet first...therefore facing altar...at end...pallbearers...four...hefted it upon shoulders...turning it around...faceforward to head out....cornellia and ed wiler...had i brushed up on my french and been better prepared, i would have asked the family if they had any deviled eggs and tomato aspic...perhaps i could have gone with them to the house...some fried chicken would be good too

no margaret britt, i did not take a chicken casserole

i do attend a lot of funerals...they are very important...and you never know if you might make a difference...my first funeral was that of edgerton rideout...some may recall edgerton...he was a big as the side of the house....first cousin to ma on the pinnell side...i couldnt have been more than 5...sat with ma...on right side of church...very odd i remember...ma always sat on the left...casket was open, large ladies who lived on the rideout farm went up to pay their respects, dressed to kill in black with hose that made loud noises, scrunch-scratch-scrunch, when they walked and big hats with feathers....after the service (this was before we added onto the front of providence...those steps were always mean, they said, for the pallbearers to get down with a casket, especially one as heavy as that one)...there must've been a lot of momentum heading up the aisle because the cart and casket kept going and bumped down a step or 2...i turned around to see...ma told me to face the front...i am sure that dorman probably had a stroke

grandmas was next....2nd grade...7 years old...remember the day she died...ma told us when daddy came in at supper...she was crying...momma was of course in selma...i went out to cry with the dog...dogs are great comforters you know...i remember wendy...who may have been 2 coming out to check on me...she's still checking on me

burying a child has got to be the worst thing ever...granny, grandmas momma, was still living...i can still see and hear her raw emotion...seems like she and aunt frances were there when momma and daddy took me to parishes to see grandma

back to why funerals are important...when we stepped out of the chapel to go to the family car, katy jones was standing there...or she came to the car...cant specifically remember...i will never forget that...we played with brad and alice alot and momma and katy were great buds...for a little boy...having someone he loved and respected in a strange place with mostly strange people for a event in life that he hadnt experienced was a big deal. had the opportunity to share that with katy recently...it seemed as though she barely remembered going...and didnt realize the impact it had on me.

when gan died, mamie helen came and took over. the odoms are always there for important paynter events...thinking back...it was a big deal that she took over at bessie paynters...ma didnt let anybody in the kitchen...except us...ever...but mamie helen was in charge

when ma died and there was 26 inches of snow on the ground, about 100 people came to afton...i think i could name 80 of them...we knew that those folks really wanted to be there....and it meant so much

there are four funerals i would have attended had i not been in europe...
...graham boyd...must get to ferns and lawrence and velvets upon return...always so kind...and when i moved into the house on fairview street, the first housewarming gift i received was from graham and fern...potpurri...when i opened it, i thought, what??? i had sold hundreds of bags of smell of citrus/lemon at interiors...but never had bought any...but a perfect gift...the house was spotless...you could eat off the floors when i moved in...anyone who knows harriet banzet, would know that to be true...but it hadnt been lived in since mrs daniel had passed away....a shut up house, plus a house full of furniture which had been in barns, garages, closets, etc....the perfect gift.

...i think i first met selby benton when i used to hang out at odom motor service with mamie helen and popeye afterschool...the furniture store was next door and if memory serves correctly, he would come in every afternoon for a coke or something...then, in God Squad, we went to summer camp at lake gaston estates and selby was of course there...then, in the 8th grade, he was involved in my nomination to a rotary leadership weekend...in recent years as his eyesight was failing...he would recognize my voice uptown as he sat with popeye and mamie helen selling avon (at last i thought he did-mamie helen may have said, here comes rann-regardless, it made me feel good)

...joan culberson, a true lady and friend in asheboro, wife of banker jim culberson....she was having a bad day when i drove through town in july and jim and i agreed it would be better for me to come another time...but i didnt make it back

...dr holt. when we moved to warrenton, we lived in dr holts little house...he had big dogs...boxers...i remember him coming to see gan when we thought he had kidney cancer...gan's family farmed dr holts daddy's land...a visit to dr holt was also on my list for this fall...3 quickies on dr. holt...he removed a huge moth from my ear one night after a football game...it flew right it...dr holt pulled it out with tweezers...wings still flapping...i thought it was going to go through to the other ear...hurt like hell...not dr holt pulling it out, but the wings flapping

after the christmas party at my house, last year in warrenton, he sent me a note thanking me for inviting him...said he especially enjoyed the silver bullets in the bathtub (which served as the beer cooler), said it reminded him of prohibition

about 5 years ago, wendy had some eye challenges...i didnt think things were progressing fast enough...suggested she call dr holt...she said, he's too old, he's not even practicing...i said, but everybody at duke eye center knows tom holt...so she consented to me giving him a call...i woke him up...he had fallen asleep reading the paper...he said that since he had retired his license, he really didnt know anyone...2 days later...i received...typed...of course...a note from dr holt...it said that he had been thinking about wendy and recalled a few names which he provided...he went further to emphasize that he really was asleep when i called and though it probably sounded like/appeared as though he was drunk or hung over, that was indeed not the case, he had dozed off in the sun while reading the news and observer.

patriotism

although i truly believe our freedom in america is fragile and will continue to be so...but that's the subject of book...we are so very fortunate to have the freedoms we hold dear...i've loved every second of the time i have had in i dont know how many countries, but i wouldnt trade my citizenship for that of any other

while daddy is a veteran, believe my patriotism was entrenched during 75-76, kindergarten with harriet banzet...our kindergarten graduation had a bicentennial theme...dont think i've heard yankee doodle dandy more than 3 times since then...dont know why, it's a great tune...but all those great songs, you're a grand old flag, etc...she taught us...we had great teachers at WA...not only banzet, but libba traylor---who painted her lipstick on---didnt know at 7 that that was hot, but it was---ann fleming---elaine coleman---betsy brown---mary catherine harris...most are still teaching me things today....those teachers and our parents instilled so much good in us...though i have not been blessed with children...it is amazing to me to see the kids of kathy coleman, now kate hazen; laura scott bay; karen harris moseley; jimmy vaughan; and katherine harris young...they all have the same manners we grew up with...

speaking of kindergarten, a real treat one february day when mamie helen odom picked me up from school...mamie helen and popeye are like family to us...first neighbors sarah and i had and the best ever...great until we got to afton and nobody would tell me where my momma was...gan must've been in the field...daddy was delivering equipment to long manufacturing in tarboro, dick womble...engineer at daddy's shop, was having lunch with us...i recall having a meltdown...one hampton short would be proud of

later that day, wrecked golf cart, macey very upset...perhaps he had a meltdown then....

sometime around christmas that year, recall that sarah and i were told we would have a baby brother or sister...turns out this was the day wendy arrived...feb 26...ma's birthday was the 25th, she had said the night before at supper to momma that she was going to work herself into the hospital...did not, of course, know what that meant...

wendy's arrival great....rest of day not so good, daddy pissed cause i wrecked the golfcart...i was only 5-give me a break...also upset sarah...cant recall why, she threw daddy's 100 ft tape measure at me...hit me in the upper lip...all photos of us with wendy as a newborn feature my the scab

so blessed to have 2 great sisters...and...things do happen for a reason...moving home after pfeiffer gave me opportunity to get to know wendy...being 6 years apart...that was really great

versailles

yesterday took us to versailles...last trip there it rained like you wouldnt believe...wind a blowing...remember that lisa wilson and i literally held onto each other for support, umbrella inside out...

great visit there...judith, welton and daddy rented a golf cart for gardens...louise, viv and i walked to marie antionettes domain...had to wait for noon for it to open...momma and i rented a row boat and rowed the grand canal...suzan monk and tim horne would have been proud of me

after first 30 seconds momma relaxed and loosened her grip on the sides of the boat, thought at first she might crack the hull...she had her life jacket on...understandable...she has always been deathly afraid of the water...aunt judith is too...momma took swimming lessons at the Y and "graduated" about 2 years ago....girls and i very proud...now next time she takes us to the lake we can all swim

visit to notre dame in the afternoon,

macey and viv had date night, rest of us went to l'entre cote...great restaurant...no decisions as they serve...ONLY...salad...steak with incredible sauce...fries...no ketchup...ever...we returned, with parisian lovers macey and viv tonight...welton and i had crepes on return trip

last night beautiful family at next table...mother looked like catherine deneuve (sp?)...little boy, 6, taking english...had beautiful magazine with cats...prompted me to get one for emily...emily...act surprised on christmas, ok?

cant wait to blast out the speakers in the automobile upon return...now listening to "where you are" fav rascal flatts tune on u tube---have seen them in concert 3 times...they dont play it...have only heard it on the radio once

sometimes you just have to go off on your own...51 days, 51 minutes or 51 seconds whatever it takes

ya'll know that daddy and i cannot go anywhere for more than 24 hours and not search for junk...did major flea market today....i bought nothing...still no silver...he bought lee a surprise...and some old keys...momma found 14 dessert plates...all different...new look for the hutch in the kitchen...and a copper kettle...maybe she is going to make apple butter???? damn thing weighs at least 25 lbs...i carried it at least 4 kilometers today...i think it will have my name on it with masking tape for after she crosses over

great to spend a day with the parents today...appreciate them more each year as i get older...typing this now as perhaps they wont read and it wont go to their heads since they are here in paris rather than at home in afton....they really are great...and i probably drive them as crazy as they drive me...on occassion...both ways

we really were fortunate to have parents who supported us in everything we did...i would bet my retirement account that they didnt miss a dozen things from the 3 of us...i only know of one for me...both vehicles were 'broke down' when the pfeiffer choir sung at carnegie hall and they couldnt get to nyc...thought they were going to miss the messiah, senior year, but they made it in the nick of time...chapel was packed...they stood with backs to door with david and corrine smith...so that was great, got to look right at em during the concert...hope music program at pfeiffer has days of full chapels again

speaking of pfeiffer...thought of elsie and ken lowder when in dijon...she collects owls...little brass owls embedded in the sidewalk leads visitors on the city tour...they've led a lot of young people during their time at our little school

also, cant help but notice the uniformity of the canopy (level of leaves on trees) in the gardens and streets here...didnt even have a clue about this until serving on campus beautification with joan eargle...so glad got to spend a weekend with joan and zane, joanie, cole, russell, zane, andrew and maggie before departure...while at pfeiffer, when we had student dinners, folks would fight over getting to sit in the dining room with zane...mickie rose...then nolan...and i learned early on, better to sit in the breakfast room with joan...we ALWAYS got seconds and sometimes thirds....folks in dining room...got to go back to the dorms.

visited food market today also...tapanade, bread with walnuts, blue cheese, salami...made for great picnic...then, got to sail a toy sailboat on the pond...no change at the boat rental...very kind lady...isabelle and her adopted russian daughter...whose name i cant recall, paid my rental as i am a 'guest' here...when i asked how to do this...she said, just put the boat in the water, when the wind hits it, run like hell to the other side before it crashes...had a bamboo batton to prevent this occurence

returned to orsay with viv and to the orangerie museum as well....then 2 hour nap

several folks here think my name is phillipe...that was my name in french class...have thought to much about carole wilkerson, my favorite high school teacher (french, homeroom and yearbook)...wish i could visit her and tell her all about my travels here...ironically, her daughter jamie friended me on facebook today...perhaps carole had a hand in that from above today...french 2 was the best...we helped her grade papers alot and worked on the year book, as dan blaylock, melissa draffin and evelyn hall and i were melbourne playing buds (french card game) in that class. melissa made crepes for her french project, thought of her each time i had a nutella crepe here

theres a place in france...

...where the naked ladies dance...did not go there with mom, dad, the aunts and uncle

trying desperately to gt the last week onto the blog before departure in the am...wondering how to stay awake...guy just sat at next terminal who hasnt had a bath since easter...the lord does work in mysterious ways...cant even breathe...much less go to sleep

first day in paris, while strolling from the champs elysesse to the eiffel tower

car stopped, asking for directions...sucker that i was, i tried to help...poor guy, clothing rep he said, had been in paris from milan...had the night before been out drinkin, gamblin, and associatin with loose women...spent all his dough...no money for petrol to return to his bride in milan...wanted 100 euro for 2 leather coats...each...got them for 75 euro, both, hope they dont burn a hole in my luggage

purple rain on the loud speakers here at internet cafe...first real kiss was to purple rain at sherry whites birthday party on mortgage hill...no i am not namin names

so glad uncle welton and aunt judith could come...growing up, they were always away...colorado, west virginia...so we didnt get to spend much time with them or get to know them...both so fine...welton is a baptist minister...breaks forth in song whenever things get heavy to lighten them up...yesterday it was johnny cash...today, bringing in the sheaves...often breaks into song just to sing...doesnt have to be heavy

got to spend a long vets day weekend with them in dc several years ago...where the idea for this trip...the normandy/paris piece...was born...emily and hannah, along with sarah, alexander and i got to really spend quality time with them then...so glad for other opportunities for that to continue

equal time for aunts not here...in order by age...eleanor is the only one, i think, who makes homemade chicken pastry like grandma did...one of the very few things i remember about grandma nunnery...it is on my bucket list to spend time with her to learn this craft...best family meal ever was at her house...probably 30 years or go or more when aunt ernie, the baby of the family...but in many ways the matriarch as she keeps all the traditions alive...taught me how to eat the best part of the turkey...the skin...ernie and i traditionally skin the turkey...we have been sharing with wendy for some time...but we tell everyone else it is bad

i hope that eleanor started a new tradition last christmas when she made a coconut cake that was soaked in coconut milk and eagle brand...i had to lay down on the floor afterwards...yum good...she just completed a college degree...no small feat in your fifties...all very proud of her accomplishment

christmas is most often at aunt ernie and uncle dales...all the little kids love uncle dale...the bigger kids, darren, sarah, wendy and me....head straight to the basement...they have a ms pacman machine...i think we missed the blessing one year...best part is that the machine has been modified...no quarters needed, can play all night

the christmas aunt ernie and uncle dale got engaged, she spent christmas eve at our house...got to have santa with her...a very special yule


aunt judith and momma have outlived grandma...who died at 62...all five are now grandmothers...she really didnt have an opportunity to be a grandmother...save for troy, robert and darren...and the paynters a little bit...i think she would be most proud of the women, mothers and grandmas she raised

lots of twins spotted
rob cunningham...unc grad bud...who ironically had twin girls since i've been gone with wife candy...congrats to rob, candy and big brother anderson...a cool kid...many of you will remember anderson...he was the little fellow i held for most of my graduation pig pickin last year
friend and respected banker hope connell...although aunt louise thought her twin more closely resembled hope's mom, ella ann holding
former colleague nathan batts
cousin howard moss-paynter side
pinnell side cousin-patricia morris
genie earnhardt-hostess extraordinnaire in raleigh
alan mustian...complete with too cool for school sunglasses...driving a delivery van...passed me on the corner and i waved before i realized it wasnt alan
and today, nancy harris echols...only person i know who can handle her home burning with the grace she did...whole neighborhood in shock in the harty's yard and she was as cool as a cucumber

couple from san diego staying at hotel bonaparte...he talks just like karl hehl....great to visit with ron the other morning

earlier in the week, coffee with friend and neighbor beth fleishman...beth gave me so much good advice for this journey...the hotel bonaparte, where to eat...chez allard...frog legs...and more...so great to see her...if you do not buy your antiques from beth at the knick knack patty wack...time to start christmas shopping

linda fleming---momma saw your twin today...wish you could have seen the flower delivery truck filled with...polk berries...need to tell laurie that i will harvest a truck load of'em...perhaps we can start a new trend...would be interesting to know how much they charge for an arrangement of polk berries...best part...kids can paint their faces with the juice for cowboys and indians as sarah, jeff and beth howard and i used to do

wonderful new friend margaret pierce and her husband george from washington state...have shared lots of advice for travel in france...she just completed degree in psycotherapy...perhaps she will take me on as a test case

know hamp, wil, emily and hannah will want to know if big daddy is wearing his hearing aids...no...but did in normandy...big daddy has learned how to charge the battery in his camera and to zoom for close up shots....fun to watch him...he took thousands of photos in vietnam...and when we were little...but really havent seen him take a photo in 25 years or more...he has had fun with it

viv has had fun too...has had her photo taken in front of everything we've seen...they are too funny...aunt louise said...macey can keep up with u rann, step for step...i think he's scared i might leave him somewhere

louise, macey and viv had horrific cab experience...really thought they were going to be robbed...but turned out ok...macey viv and i had bad cabbie from train station to hotel after normandy/chartres trip...macey said he wasnt getting back in a cab...good thing, we all think they are cursed...so we dont want to ride with them...haha

today is day 50 of 51
0 photos uploaded, 2100+taken
1 time wished for navy blazer...but that passed
0 calls home
0 cokes
1 hamburger
countless memories made

important to save for a rainy day...cause sometimes you have to make your own rainy day...great to have that cushion

family and friends truly are everything



uncle welton had horrific leg cramp after dinner the other night...i returned to restaurant, our waiter jerry at first thought i needed white vinegar...evidently the magic cure for this...for cleaning...they had balsamic vinegar...but no white...so he had someone go down the street for the vinegar...great service...it did cure it...good to know, i get these occassionally...typically in the middle of the night

Thursday, September 9, 2010

out of order

with all the geriatrics here---hard to find time to blog so i am ay behind---cordon bleu; normandy ; chartres and more--but first; while still fresh in my mind-yesterday

outta here by 830 to see the local market; then bus 87 to napoleons tomb

lost uncle welton-turns out he was at napoleons throne rome for an extended much needed visit

visited tomb; chapel; armour; and chronological exhibits of the first and second world wars very interesting

then lunch from a pastry shop--a formula-what we would call a value meal--sandwich; dessert and drink enjoyed on park bench

fed pigeons big chunks of crusty bread-macey impressed that pigeons took bread to water to soften it before eating

then; to--thanks to aunt judith--lafayettes grave---little known spot; ony 3 people there plus us

in cemetery attached to nunnery--yesterday 3 nunnery girls visited

maintained by DAR ladies and the mount vernon ladies too

beautiful church at the convent;maid was polishing the wood floors; slick as glass; no falls today

onto the sacre cour
street performers there louise and i had seen last week across town

100 meters out of church; storm clouds forming; judith suggested returning to church; literaly seeking sanctuary--great call
sat in silence for about an hour
during this time viv reviewed photos; deleted one; became highly distraught; realizing she had deleted many photos including all from normandy

20 min later; realized she didnt delete photos; her battery died that day---didnt take any phtotos; she was relieved; louise and i laughed so much oi thought we would get kicked out of yet another church

did i tell you that louise touched a statue at the louvre on her birthday almost got thrown out--ernie and eleano---is she a bad influence

i rode the carousel--only person on it--save for the local children who jumped on and rode quarter turns with me on the side the operator could not see--hamp and emily woud have liked

onto the madeine and then to printemps for shopping and hot dogs on the street

done at 8 all those over 40 rode the metro back--no one wanted to walk--about 5 kilometers

halfway back; rain begins to gently fall; i removed the hampton backpack; securing it beneath my parka--didnt want steel box_heavy as lead_i bought at antique store for 30 euro_estimqted by uncle welton and macey to be several hundred years old_ painted red inside_i believe it to be the message box of napoleon_didnt want it to get wet___about 10 blocks from hotel; bottom drops_frog strangler

didnt want to ruin loafers;removed; put in pockets; barefootin it back to hotel bonaparte; parisians sought shelter under awnings; so i greeted them warmly-bon soir_sure they thought i was nuts; also belting_singing in the rain

soaked upon arrival

geriatrics had not arrived

changed; dried off; found fresh towels to greet them with; they sought shelter under an awning

macey changed and we went arund the corner so that i could enjoy a glass a wine--had croque madames--basically a griled ham and cheese with an egg on top--thanks again heather anderson for a great recommendation

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

my first memory

today is not the anniversary of my first memory---but--it is close---probably on sept 11 or 12

i was 19 months old and was in afton with ma and gan

cant recall what we were doing--but i remember that we were outside; just the three of us; under the chaineyball tree---momma and daddy drove up; in the back; where gan usually parked the pickup truck in their car--green--ugly--ugly--ford

not sure who opened mommas door; probably gan


on the front seat; sarah

my world changed and for the better; although at ti,es growing up i am sure i didnt feel that way

we had pictures made--at marguerite miles shop in warrenton--when it was just the 2 of us--thats pw--pre-wendy--dont see that picture often; dont think i have one; but it is the greatest; sweetest picture of us--she probably doesnt think so; but i feel; every day; for her; the love that is depicted in that shot

sarah is n many ways the strongest of the three of us-i know wendy would qgree--shes definitely the nicest; wendy is a close close; very close; second

while wendy and i have built names and reputations for ourselves; sarah has done it away from home

when sarah joined me at pfeiffer; she was ranns sister

now when i go to albemarle; i amknown as sarahs brother; a great title

happy birthday sarah-number 38

Monday, September 6, 2010

new arrivals

couldnt sleep; up at 330; bfast at 6; then train with aunt louise to airport

hadnt waited this long to see momma and daddy since emerging from the womb in 1970

they recognized me at international arrivals--wondered if they would--what with my longer; blond hair---at least that which hasnt fallen out yet---they did

so glad to have them and aunt judith and uncle welton here

rental van is a stick---hadnt driven one in over 20 yrs---first 30 minutes kindq nerve wracking---macey didnt help:::amazing that he can hear gears scraping but not anything i need to know when is hearing aids are out--had challenges with seats and emergency brake

aunt louise riding shotgun in charge of gar,in; the french gps---recommended by beth fleishman

Thursday, September 2, 2010

auntie louise arrives

while a hurricane is approaching north carolina, wednesday morning brought aunt louise to paris...she was a whirlwind arrival as her flight from rdu to philly was delayed more than an hour...she had 15 min to make transfer upon arrival....running through the concourse yelling to the gals at gate 14, call gate 20 and tell 'em i'm on the way...she made it...only barely....as the gate was closing...last to board flight

while waiting for her flight, had opportunity to check in with hertz, learn about their location, where cars are parked, etc...in prep for the geriatrics' arrival on sat

so so so glad to see auntie louise

she only had 3 hours sleep on the plane but was ready to hit the street...dropped bags at hotel bonaparte, home for the nunnery clan while in paris...i had been over at 530, waking up the night manager to stow my bags in the baggagerie...then headed off to my favorite pastry shop

there, they have the most incredible bread pudding with apricots on top...wish sarah and wendy could have a slice...tastes more like ma's than anything i've had since she crossed over in 2000...she used to give us "little glasses" of the bread pudding custard/milk ...even saving some for us in the frig until we got home from school...she still did that for me when i was at pfeiffer...but the pastry shop was closed...so...to the pantheon where we had a wonderful picnic on the steps of the church...very relaxing until the security guard kicked us off the square...no picnics allowed...emily and hampton, do you think aunt louise is a bad influence on me? hadnt been kicked out of church until she arrives

on to notre dame, walked till 2...back to the hotel...naps in the afternoon...then, river seine tour...got chilly, i neglected to bring jacket...dinner near hotel...ribeye...awesome...first steak since mid-july...tiny tables...nice business dudes at next table told us to put some of our things on their table since ours was packed. dont think uncle larry had fed aunt louise since july 4th, she ordered what turned out to be a huge meal...full plates of coq au vin, green salad and mashed potatoes

yesterday was her 61st birthday...best coffee in europe at hotel bonaparte with croissants...then to marmotten museum...large collection of monet....got there at 10, opens at 11, so we had some yummy pastries nearby...then on to printemps for shopping....covered entire store...3 buildings, save for boxers and brassieres...after all we aint from west virginia, lol

as i type this, have headphones on listening to a little jerry butler...i'm just thinking about coolin out...johnnie britt are you reading this?

printemps is the harrods/maceys of paris...shopped last time there with linda bunch

big new york promotion going on...hot dogs on the street just outside the store...great lunch...had french fried onions on them...made me think of robert monk...robert and suzan used to do monk burgers on sunday night...burgers on the grill...as they got 'ready' robert would add a mound of durkees french fried onions, then 2 slices of cheese, close the lid, cheese melts, encapsulating the onions...awesome...sure miss robert monk

to the louvre....there for almost 4 hours...thought i had done the 'left wing'...2 hours of galleries i hadn't seen...then the sexy stuff, venus, slaves, mona, and winged victory

back to printemps for a coke-aunt louise and a cold beer...me!! on the roof...great views of the city...and back to ladies wear for the thursday afternoon jazz concert...to the hotel, change...
chez allard for dinner...famous for frog legs...didnt have them....but reservations for next tues at 1030 pm...must have them then

friend beth fleishman recommended...louise had salmon, i had rabbitt...hippity hop....terrific meal...to celebrate her special day

today, louise is shopping more, wandering the city, i am heading to the cordon bleu for a cooking class...cant wait

momma has 4 sisters...she is 2 of 5, louise is #3...always knew we were a lot a like...both have alot of nunnery in us...can go from zero to get the hell ouot of my face in less than the last 10th of a second on the clock in the ncaa basketball tourney...we also travel great together...spend the same amounts of time with art, shopping, etc...then moving on

more later, gotta go cook lunch

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

an american in paris...

...not me...a keyboard...yes...worth it to pay more for cyber access to have familiar keyboard...am re-learning where the "a" and the "m" are located

same disclaimer applies...while a number of my former teachers are reading this, hopefully no one is grading...user errors on these blogs will be typos!!!

love paris love paris...weather is beautiful...not like what friend in nc are likely to receive with hurricane earl...

go-gous weather...go gous as haitie bowers would say...why i ever moved from that wonderful garage apartment with incredibly low rent and wonderful benefits i will never know...2 stories on haitie...she was in her 90s when i moved in...if i remember correctly, 95. previous tenant had been messing around...haitie didnt tell me, but i knew from other sources...she kept dropping these odd lines...finally i looked at her and said miss haitie, you've known me all my life, i dont mess around with folks i aint suppossed to and i dont do drugs but i do drink a little liquor every now and again...she said, rann, as long as you share, we will never have a problem. whenever i had guests including haitie, there was always a little bourbon and water in her hand

while i lived there, we had a hurricane, cant recall which one...but no electricity and the yard was covered in limbs, leaves and debris...although i knew johnny talley would be there within a couple of days, i began clearing the driveway...pretty large if you recall...so that i could get the aurora out and she could maneuver her cadillac

haitie came out to check on me...then...she went in the "laundry room" and made a number of trips out to the concrete bench in front of the picture window there...i watched her...she had a gallon can...like tomatoes come in, 2 aluminum pie pans...tin foil pans stephie harty...a hammer, nail, matches...and a candle...along with a plate with several blueberry/bran muffins (her specialty...she made them by the tons...each muffin had exactly 4 blueberries in it placed just so in the center) which had been split and buttered...i said haitie, what in the hell are you doing..she said, since you're cleaning the driveway, i am making you breakfast...she proceeded to punch some holes in the can around the top with the hammer and nail....some in the bottom of one of the tin foil pans....lit the candle, let some wax drip into the can, set candle in wax, tin foil pan with holes next, filled with muffins, another pan on top...15 minutes later...hot muffins for breakfast...she was something else

when i came to paris for the first time, i was 13....lots of people from africa were on the plaza beneath the eiffel tower selling those flapping birds...you toss them in the air, they fly back to you...provoking the heck out of emmy lou coleman and me...wanna buy a bird, wanna buy a bird, wanna buy a bird

linda (then bunch) harris told me that the next time i was "attacked" by the birdmen, i should say, F you monsieur...so, of course i did...say...F you monsieur...he responded back, F you too, little shit

didnt see any bird hawkers...mainly models of the tower...and much more diversified group of sales people from around the world...but did see in a window, one of those birds....took picture for emmy lou

the rodin museum was worthwhile...the kiss is my favorite of his works...i must say, that our collection in raleigh....comes pretty darn close...and actually, may be presented more thoughtfully...if you havent been to the new and improved museum of art...you must go...

returned to the louvre...had missed michaelangelos dying slave...glad i did...think that his slaves presented at the accademia in florence top this one...and...as i recall... were unfinished...he believed that God had the sculpture within the marble...his job was to release it...the slaves...mid-release in florence were stunning

also toured napoleons apartments...and the "left side" of the museum...great afternoon...all the famous/sexy works are on the right side...venus de milo, the mona lisa, winged victory, dying slave...so there were no crowds on the left...great day

twin spotted, lysle misenheimer. lysle and wife gale adopted me while at pfeiffer...still provide advice, gale was teaching me, via phone, how to can tomatoes this summer...washed a lot of clothes at their place while at pfeiffer...once on the first saturday in december...sleet coming down like crazy...daughter susan was putting up the christmas tree...i was home sick, homesick. susan made me a fried bologna sandwich....dont see susan often, but i always thank her for that sandwich....it was mighty fine

another time there, mickie nolan, now rose, and i were there and i was sick with a sore throat...we did our laundry, gale had fed us and i was coughing like crazy...lysle said, rann, i got something for that coughin you're a doin...and he poured me about 2 fingers of peach...although it may have been apple...brandy...said now drink this. of course, i did, i always do what people i respect ask,hahaha...lysle said, now what do you think...i said, i think i need another dose.

cough gone, i was cured